UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup Wujiang: Report

© UKC News
Natalie Berry UKC

This has been read 16,617 times

The sixth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China took place last weekend (17th/18th October). Korea's Jain Kim continued her winning form to take Gold, and Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic won his first event of the 2015 series. 

photo
Jain Kim of Korea in Wujiang, 2014.
© IFSC

The finals included a familiar line-up for the women and featured Austria's Magdalena Röck for the first time this season after disappointing results in the previous five rounds.

Jain Kim climbed to 6 holds higher than the rest of the field, six of which were stopped at the same point. The results were therefore decided on countback to the semi-final round. Anak Verhoeven of Belgium managed one hold further than the stopper move to take Silver ahead of Austria's Jessica Pilz.

Minoru Makano of Japan (2nd place in Briançon) joined a strong group of habitual finalists. The field was split well, with Ondra taking Gold ahead of Slovenia's Domen Skofic and Sean McColl of Canada.

photo
Sean McColl competing in Wujiang in 2014
© IFSC

With one round to go in Kranj, Slovenia next month, Gautier Supper of France leads the men's ranking by just 10 points and Mina Markovic is on top of the women's ranking ahead of Jain Kim and Jessica Pilz.

Unfortunately there was no live stream or replay of this event.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Wujiang (CHN) 2015

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Adam Ondra CZE Top  1. 41+ 35
2 Domen Skofic SLO 35+  11. 44 31
3 Sean McColl CAN Top  1. 41+ 28+
4 Ramón  Julian  Puigblanque ESP Top  1. 46 26+
5 Jakob Schubert AUT Top  1. 45+ 22
6 Sebastian Halenke GER 36+  9. 33+ 21
7 Gautier Supper FRA Top  1. 32+ 21
8 Minoru NAKANO JPN 35+  11. 33 10
9 Naoki SHIMATANI JPN 36+  9. 32+  
10 KEIICHIRO KORENAGA JPN 35+  11. 32+  
11 Francesco Vettorata ITA Top  1. 32  
12 Romain Desgranges FRA Top  1. 31  
13 Elan JonasMcRae CAN 34+  14. 31  
14 Bernhard Röck AUT 27+  20. 29+  
15 Max Rudigier AUT 19   28. 29+  
16 Shinichiro NOMURA JPN 34+  14. 28+  
17 Loïc Timmermans BEL 28+  17. 25+  
18 Mario Lechner AUT 28+  17. 25+  
19 Haibin Qu CHN 27+  20. 25+  
20 Zida Ma CHN 22.5+  24. 25+  
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Jain Kim KOR Top  1. 41+ 40+
2 Anak VERHOEVEN BEL Top  1. 26 34
3 Jessica Pilz AUT Top  1. 36 33+
4 Hélène Janicot FRA Top  1. 33 33+
5 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 41   9. 31+ 33+
6 Mina Markovic SLO Top  1. 28 33+
7 Magdalena Röck AUT Top  1. 28 33+
8 Katharina Posch AUT 45   7. 24+ 33+
9 Jenny Lavarda ITA 40   10. 24+  
10 Netta Fredman ISR 40   10. 23+  
10 Risa OTA JPN 40   10. 23+  
12 Aya ONOE JPN 30+  15. 23+  
13 Delaney Miller USA 39   13. 21+  
14 Tjasa KALAN SLO 42+  8. 20+  
15 Aika TAJIMA JPN 32+  14. 19+  
16 MOE YOSHIMURA JPN 20   18. 19+  
17 Yuki HIROSHIGE JPN 22+  16. 18  
18 Natsuko Shimizu JPN 21   17. 17+  
19 YuZhen BaiMa CHN 20   18. 16+  
20 Zhuoma Pubu CHN 19+  20. 15+  
Full results

 

 

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Comments

stp
21 Oct, 2015
So anyone know if the video is or will be available? I seem to recall the IFSC saying there wouldn't be live coverage but the video would be up shortly after the event. But I can't find them anywhere.
johncook
21 Oct, 2015
I sent IFSC a message on their site asking when the videos would be up. Three days later and still no response or videos. Also no IFSC video of the IFSC paraclimbing from Awesome Walls Sheffield, or of the BLCC from the same place on the same day, from the BMC. These organisers don't seem to realise that many people are interested in watching elite climbers perform. Advertisers/sponsors are not going to be too impressed if they don't get the coverage they expected and may start to look for more effective uses for their budgets.
tom_in_edinburgh
21 Oct, 2015
This just looks unprofessional: providing facilities to allow streaming video should be a condition of hosting the event. Why don't they understand that people who have watched all the earlier rounds are going to want to see the last couple of rounds? It's like the Rugby World Cup deciding they aren't going to televise the semi finals.
Graeme Alderson
21 Oct, 2015
It is virtually impossible to stream from China unless you have mega clout. The Great Firewall of China means that anything streamed from there is checked to ensure nothing 'bad' gets out. The IFSC are not the IOC or FIFA hence we cannot effectively stream. So the decision was made to record and then upload once the TV crew are back somewhere that allows uploading at a decent speed. So the comp ended in China on Sunday, chances are the guys didn't make it back to home base (Solihull) until yesterday at the earliest, maybe even today. And then the guys have to upload the data files, this takes a few hours as they are massive. And of course they have to recover from jet lag and traveling for 20+ hours. And all this is so that the IFSC can provide a free-to-view service :-)
johncook
21 Oct, 2015
Why have the comp in China in that case. There are a lot of other countries that do allow streaming that don't have these comps, including the UK and Australia. The other Asian countries are also good, use them more if it is needed to attract Asian audiences.
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