James McHaffie (the dark lord of British climbing) is always out there onsighting hard route after hard route. We know it, everyone knows it, and to be honest we just don't have the bandwidth to report every time this Cumbrian trad-master knocks out another E7 onsight.
© Rab / Ray Wood
Preferring to climb onsight or if that fails then ground-up, James McHaffie has amassed a UK trad ticklist that is literally second to none. He commented (when pushed):
"I can probably get the 100 E7 onsights over the next 5 years I think. I'm above 70 now."
So, in no specific order here are most (not all!) of James' routes of E6 and above that he has climbed onsight or ground-up in the summer of 2015.
|
Outfoxed |
E6 6b/c | |
|
Horizontal Pleasures |
E7 6c |
|
| E7 6c | ||
|
Roof of the World |
E7 6b | |
| E7 6c | Was originally thought E8 | |
| Imminent Departees (E7 6c) | E7 6c | |
| Wee Laddies | E6 6b | |
| Big Boys (E5 6a) | E7 6b | |
| Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000) (E6 6b) | E6 6b | |
| The Good, The Bad And The Ugly (E7 6b) | E7 6b | |
| Dreaming Again (E6 6c) | E6 6c | |
| An American Werewolf on Lundy (E6 6b) | E6 6b | |
| Absinthe | E6 6a | |
| Surreal Appeal | E7 6b/c | |
| The Flying Dutchman (E7 6c) | E7 6c | |
| The fifth ace | E7 6b | |
| Intensive Scare (Intensive Care) (E7 6b) | E7 6b | |
| Incantations (E6 6b) | E6 6b | |
| Painted Rumour (E6 6a) | E6 6a | |
| Divided Years (E9 6c) | E8 7a | Ground Up |
| Extinction (E8 6b) | E8 6c |
Ground Up - was tired from a lot the day before |
| Nowt but a Fleein' Thing (E8 6c) | E8 6c | Ground Up |
| Pieceline | E8 6c | Ground Up - no falls |
| Callipigian Groove | E6 6b | |
| M35 (A35) (E6 6c) | E6 6b | More like E4 IMO |
Also of note is of course James' ascent of Coeur de Lion (E8 7a) (E8 7a) on the slate after a couple of goes self belaying on a Grigri, and, not really being a sport climber he thought he'd have a punt and managed a few bolted climbs this year too, such as Megalopa (8c+) (8c+) at LPT, and Mind Control (8c) 8c+ at Oliana in Spain.
James also had what he called a 'good day' in Yorkshire onsighting Supercool (8a+) 8a+, Cave Route Left (7c+) 7c+, Dogpoint (7c+) 7c+, and then finishing on a route he had done before with a warm down burn on Mescalito (7c+) 7c+.
This isn't the full list, as James has also done countless E4s and E5s and grade 8 sport redpoints this year too.
James McHaffie is sponsored by: BMC, Boreal, DMM, Rab and Sterling Rope
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