UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup Kranj: Report

© IFSC

The final round of the 2015 IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Kranj, Slovenia last weekend. With the overall standings being closely contested, the field was left open right up until the finals of the event, making for a spectacular end to the 2015 season. Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic were the winners of this round and also the winners of the overall season.

In the men's event, the final route was a powerful volume-ridden climb with a few jumps and deadpoints which stopped a few strong contenders. French competitor Gautier Supper - who lead the overall standing up until Kranj - suffered from an unfortunate slip low down which placed him 8th and moved him into 2nd overall. Despite a valiant effort from Spain's Ramon Julian Puigblanque, he was pipped to the podium on countback by Jakob Schubert of Austria and Sean McColl of Canada. Sean made the headwall and looked set to further Adam's highpoint, but fell just one '+' move below Adam. 

Men's overall podium: Supper, Ondra and Schubert  © IFSC
Men's overall podium: Supper, Ondra and Schubert
© IFSC

The women's route was a mix of explosive power and endurance - a classic Kranj final. Young Janja Garnbret of Slovenia was once again the one to watch out for in the finals, having qualified in first place ahead of previous World Cup winners Mina Markovic and Korea's Jain Kim. Although climbing smoothly up until just below the final headwall, a stopper move defeated Janja and gave Mina the win on countback after tying with Austria's Jessica Pilz. Mina secured herself the overall win in front of an enthusiastic home crowd, with Jain Kim in 2nd and Jessica Pilz in 3rd.

Women's Overall Winners: Kim, Markovic and Pilz  © IFSC
Women's Overall Winners: Kim, Markovic and Pilz
© IFSC

There were 4 British competitors taking part, with Molly Thompson-Smith achieving a commendable 35th place in a strong field. In the Men's event, Dave Barrans placed 40th, Jim Pope 48th and Luke Dawson 66th.

Results:

Men

  1. Adam Ondra
  2. Sean McColl
  3. Jakob Schubert

Women

  1. Mina Markovic
  2. Jessica Pilz
  3. Janja Garnbret

Overall Standings

Men

  1. Adam Ondra
  2. Gautier Supper
  3. Jakob Schubert

Women

  1. Mina Markovic
  2. Jain Kim
  3. Jessica Pilz

Full Results

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Kranj (SLO) 2015

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Adam Ondra CZE Top  1. 40+ 37+
2 Sean McColl CAN Top  1. 42+ 37
3 Jakob Schubert AUT Top  1. 43+ 36+
4 Ramón  Julian  Puigblanque ESP Top  1. 41+ 36+
5 Domen Skofic SLO Top  1. 42+ 34+
6 Romain Desgranges FRA Top  1. 40+ 33+
7 Minoru NAKANO JPN 27+  29. 41 12+
8 Gautier Supper FRA Top  1. 40+ 12
9 Sachi AMMA JPN 36+  9. 40+  
10 Francesco Vettorata ITA 35+  14. 40+  
11 Jan Hojer GER 34+  18. 40+  
12 Sebastian Halenke GER Top  1. 40  
13 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 36+  9. 39+  
14 Urban Primozic SLO 36   11. 36  
15 Thomas JOANNES FRA 36   11. 35  
16 KEIICHIRO KORENAGA JPN 35+  14. 34  
17 Max Rudigier AUT 35+  14. 30+  
18 Elan JonasMcRae CAN 27+  29. 30  
19 Tomoaki TAKATA JPN 28   27. 29+  
20 Loïc Timmermans BEL 29+  26. 29+  
40 David Barrans GBR 23+  37.    
48 James Pope GBR 19+  40.    
66 Luke Dawson GBR 6+  65.    
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Mina Markovic SLO Top  1. 35 35+
2 Jessica Pilz AUT 42+  5. 35 35+
3 Janja Garnbret SLO Top  1. Top 34+
4 Jain Kim KOR Top  1. 37+ 34+
5 Anak VERHOEVEN BEL 37   15. 36+ 33+
6 Hélène Janicot FRA 39+  13. 33+ 23+
7 Mathilde Becerra FRA 41+  10. 33+ 22+
8 Christine Schranz AUT 42+  5. 31+ 22
9 Julia Chanourdie FRA 36+  16. 31+  
10 Risa OTA JPN 40   12. 31  
11 Magdalena Röck AUT 42+  5. 30+  
12 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 41+  10. 30+  
13 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 39+  13. 30+  
14 Hannah Schubert AUT 42+  5. 29  
15 Katharina Posch AUT 42+  5. 28+  
16 Alizée DUFRAISSE FRA 36+  16. 28+  
17 Rebeka Kamin SLO 29+  30. 28+  
18 Tjasa Slemensek SLO 33+  24. 27+  
19 Nikki van Bergen NED 36+  16. 26+  
20 Iva Vejmolova CZE 36+  16. 26+  
35 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR 29   32.    
Full results

 

 


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16 Nov, 2015
A good comp, and well done to both Ondra and Markovic. It's both a shame and cool that Ondra won't be competing next year. Will be very interesting to see what he gets up to on rock. I thought the semis were really good, particularly Jan Hojer's super direct version of the route which skipped about 10 moves. A bold and visionary effort. And seeing Janja top out was great too. Looked like she didn't climb so well in the final, maybe a bit of pressure getting to her perhaps.
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