UKC

Demencia senil, 9a+, 2,5f go by Alex Megos

© Megos coll.
Björn Pohl UKC

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Alex Megos on Demencia senil, 9a+, Margalef, Spain © Megos coll.
Alex Megos on Demencia senil, 9a+, Margalef, Spain
© Megos coll.
Alex Megos has been to Margalef, Spain, where he did Demencia senil, 9a+, second and a half go*, and onsighted Victimes del Passat, 8c+. 

*Once checked it out till the 3rd bolt 2 years ago but felt too hard. Today I checked it out the whole way up and did it in the go after! Huge fight! 

So, more or less a "French first go then"!

The onsight of Victimes del Passat was actually Alex' first 8c+ onsight, although he was the first in the world to onsight 9a a couple of years ago. At the time, his hardest onsight was an 8b+...

Alex Megos is sponsored by: DMM, Entre-Prises, Patagonia, Red Bull, Sterling Rope and Tenaya

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Alex Megos

Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

Alex's Athlete Page 92 posts 12 videos

Sponsored by: Tenaya, Cafe Kraft, Entre-Prises, Faza brushes, GORE-TEX, Multicamper Adventure, Patagonia, Petzl, Red Bull, Sterling Rope & Vertical Life Climbing

Comments

Morty
29 Nov, 2015
Something like '9a isn't hard anymore and 8c is approaching a rest?' Or something... Humbling stuff.
stp
29 Nov, 2015
Awesome video of Iker Pou doing it. Looks really really hard, even for a 9a+. Monos climbing through a roof. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGHlYfPKhio Didn't Ondra tweak a finger trying this route, so never did it?
Shani
29 Nov, 2015
"Action Directe on steroids" There's a phrase that captures the current state of the art in climbing.
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