Both Jimmy Webb and Charles Albert have repeated Guillaume Glairon-Mondet's Le Pied à Coulisse, ~8C+, at Rocher Gréau, Fontainebleau.
The first ascent of Le Pied à Coulisse, a direct exit to the classic Chaos at Rocher Gréau, was made by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet 15 January, so exactly one month before the first repeats. Guillaume worked the problem on and off for three seasons and said the ~8C+ grade was very much a suggestion, but that it was of course based on his experience from both Fontainebleau and other areas.
Jimmy says that he wanted to repeat what Gui gui said could be 8C+. So I did . Though maybe the most logical method would be Charle's way. But if you want to repeat that you have to take at least one shoe off.
I take it you don't agree with the 8C+? No. But I do think what he did was one of the hardest lines in the forest. 8C I would say.
Charles climbed a more direct version which he says is easier than the original method, but maybe only possible without climbing shoes [he did it barefoot].
Charles Albert has made the first ascent of L'Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow), in Salève, Haute-Savoie, in the French Prealps. He has graded the boulder 9A.
Amazing! So many hard repeats lately, it's hard to keep track! On his Facebook page Charles has this to say about Le pied à coulisse: "today i sent Le Pied à Coulisse 8c+ at Rocher Gréau but a different version by going direct and missing out the right hand version, its easier than the original method, but maybe only possible without climbing shoes, pics thanks to sandstones" Freezing and sunny conditions tomorrow and Wednesday so we can expect more like this!
I have no clue, I don't see why something that can be done barefoot couldn't be done with shoes?? There's 8a and 8a+ slabs in the forest that have been done with shoes...
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