On the 21st of March winter is over, from the 17.3-19.3 I got lucky and the long awaited weather window appeared. I dedicated a lot of time and sacrificed bouldering strength to prepare for my winter project, something I have never done before.
It was a new challenge, which felt pretty impossible at the beginning.
When Alex Huber told me about his new line at the Wetterbockwand I was blown away as it offers steep bullet limestone, is very runout and in a pretty remote area. Months later, I started thinking about a possible solo winter ascent. I knew it was going to be very tough.
The only thing I worried about was the next belay, the air mile collection grew steadily. Sometimes I spend 40 min in the runout climbing back and forth, not knowing my way and trying to find the path of least resistance. Deicing holds with my free hand or cleaning snow from ledges.
Waking up in the cold each day at 4:30 am and climbing until it got dark, was a new experience and it felt good to see how my body works in such a situation. I was 100% focused at all times and felt confident, I did not question any decision I made and never felt tired. Only after reaching the safe trail to the car, the adrenaline dropped and I was overcome by a crazy fatigue.
Never would I have thought that I need to dig so deep, to reach the top of this incredible route in winter!
Now I am unbelievably happy that it is over and I made it back safely!
Hello Nicolas. Can you briefly tell us who you are and what your role in the French team is? I used to be a good climber, not... Read more
On 2nd August, Polish climbers Łukasz Dudek and Jacek Matuszek made the third ascent of Project Fear 8c (550 m) on the north... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the first ascent of Ganesha, 8c multi pitch, on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte, Austria.... Read more
Fabian Buhl is the promising alpine skier, who turned boulderer, then trad climber and now multi pitch master. Always on a world... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the second ascent of Alex Luger's PsychoGramm, ~8b+ trad, on the Bürser Platte at Vorarlberg,... Read more