Britain's Shauna Coxsey managed to secure a second win in a row at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Kazo, Japan at the weekend, just one week after her victory in Meiringen, Switzerland. Shauna dominated all three rounds, from qualifiers through to finals, where she completed all four problems and appeared in a league of her own, topping two more than any of her fellow finalists.
The GB team also put in another strong performance as a whole, with Michaela Tracy coming incredibly close to making finals, finishing just outside the top-6 cut-off in 7th place. Leah Crane finished a commendable 14th in the semi-final round.
In the men's event, Tyler Landman fell short of making finals in 12th place, and Nathan Phillips greatly improved on his performance in Meiringen the previous weekend, placing 23rd and looking highly capable of achieving a semi-final position this season.
Melissa le Nevé maintained her 2nd place finish from Meiringen, topping two problems in the final and finishing just ahead of Japan's Miho Nonaka with one less attempt. Regular podium-finisher Anna Stöhr - who has been suffering from an injury - and 2015 World Cup overall winner Akiyo Noguchi were far off the mark in Kazo, finishing in 10th and 20th place respectively.
Rustam Gelmanov of Russia bounced back from a disappointing 12th place in Meiringen to take Gold in Kazo, closely followed by Italy's Michael Piccolruaz in 2nd place, who made a phenomenal leap from 45th place in Meiringen to his first ever Boulder World Cup podium in the space of a week. Japan's Kokoro Fujii completed the podium in 3rd place.
Commenting on her Facebook page, Shauna praised the creative routesetting at the event:
"I already can't wait to come back to Japan. I love it here and the World Cup was amazing! The comp wall was cool! The hold selection was amazing and the route setter did such a good job!"
The next round is this weekend in Chongqing, China. Can Shauna maintain her astonishing run of form?
Watch the replay of the finals below:
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Kazo (JPN) 2016
WOMENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual' | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 5t8 5b8 | 2t2 3b3 | 4t7 4b7 |
2 | Melissa Le Neve | FRA | 4t4 5b6 | 2t3 4b7 | 2t2 4b5 |
3 | Miho NONAKA | JPN | 4t5 4b4 | 1t2 4b4 | 2t3 4b6 |
4 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 4t6 5b7 | 2t4 4b7 | 2t3 3b4 |
5 | Fanny Gibert | FRA | 3t8 4b8 | 2t3 4b7 | 1t1 2b4 |
6 | Chloé CAULIER | BEL | 3t6 4b7 | 1t1 3b5 | 1t3 3b8 |
7 | Michaela Tracy | GBR | 4t8 5b9 | 1t2 4b11 | |
8 | Monika Retschy | GER | 5t11 5b8 | 1t2 3b4 | |
9 | Aya ONOE | JPN | 3t6 4b7 | 1t2 3b8 | |
10 | Anna Stöhr | AUT | 4t5 4b5 | 1t3 2b2 | |
11 | Berit Schwaiger | AUT | 3t4 4b6 | 1t4 1b1 | |
12 | CLEMENTINE KAISER | FRA | 3t7 4b7 | 0t 4b8 | |
13 | Alannah Yip | CAN | 3t4 4b4 | 0t 3b4 | |
14 | Leah Crane | GBR | 4t9 5b8 | 0t 3b5 | |
15 | Katharina Saurwein | AUT | 3t5 5b7 | 0t 3b9 | |
16 | Tomoko kajima | JPN | 4t16 5b14 | 0t 3b12 | |
17 | Mei KOTAKE | JPN | 4t8 5b10 | 0t 2b3 | |
18 | Sol Sa | KOR | 5t12 5b10 | 0t 1b1 | |
18 | Karoline Sinnhuber | AUT | 3t5 4b5 | 0t 1b1 | |
20 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 4t6 5b7 | 0t 1b3 |
MENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual' | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rustam Gelmanov | RUS | 3t6 3b4 | 3t6 4b7 | 3t3 4b4 |
2 | Michael Piccolruaz | ITA | 3t7 5b14 | 2t3 4b6 | 2t2 4b8 |
3 | Kokoro FUJII | JPN | 4t9 5b8 | 4t7 4b6 | 2t4 4b8 |
4 | Jeremy Bonder | FRA | 4t11 5b14 | 3t6 4b7 | 2t8 4b12 |
5 | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov | RUS | 3t9 4b7 | 2t2 4b4 | 1t2 3b8 |
6 | Rolands Rugens | LAT | 3t6 4b6 | 2t3 4b6 | 0t 1b2 |
7 | Sean McColl | CAN | 3t4 4b5 | 2t4 4b6 | |
8 | Jernej Kruder | SLO | 2t3 4b8 | 2t4 4b8 | |
9 | Jan Hojer | GER | 4t8 4b8 | 2t4 3b4 | |
10 | Alexander Averdunk | GER | 2t3 4b12 | 2t6 4b15 | |
11 | Yoshiyuki OGATA | JPN | 2t2 4b6 | 2t7 4b8 | |
12 | Tyler Landman | GBR | 2t4 3b4 | 1t2 4b7 | |
13 | Alexey Rubtsov | RUS | 3t7 4b7 | 1t2 4b9 | |
14 | James Kassay | AUS | 4t11 4b9 | 1t2 2b3 | |
15 | Tomoa NARASAKI | JPN | 4t6 4b4 | 1t3 4b5 | |
16 | Baptiste Ometz | SUI | 2t4 3b3 | 1t3 4b9 | |
17 | Tomoaki TAKATA | JPN | 3t11 5b15 | 0t 4b9 | |
18 | Alban LEVIER | FRA | 4t7 5b8 | 0t 3b3 | |
19 | Manuel Cornu | FRA | 2t2 3b5 | 0t 2b4 | |
20 | Martin Stranik | CZE | 3t5 4b4 | ||
23 | Nathan Phillips | GBR | 2t2 4b4 |
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