UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup Navi Mumbai: Report

© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The fourth round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Navi Mumbai, India this weekend. Soaring temperatures and high humidity made for challenging conditions, which proved too much for some competitors not accustomed to climbing in the heat. Miho Nonaka and Kokoro Fujii -  both of Japan - took gold.

Retschy, Nonaka and Noguchi  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Retschy, Nonaka and Noguchi
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Following the semi-final round, many favourites dropped out of the top 6 and failed to make finals, including Britain's Shauna Coxsey, who was on course to make history if she had managed to win her 5th consecutive World Cup this weekend. Despite this anomaly in her recent form, Shauna maintains her position at the top of the overall ranking with a comfortable lead ahead of French climber Melissa le Nevé. GB teammate Leah Crane matched her highest position of the season so far, in 11th place.

Monika Retschy securing her first IFSC Boulder World Cup medal  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Monika Retschy securing her first IFSC Boulder World Cup medal
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In a tricky final round, just two tops out of four saw 18 year-old Miho Nonaka win her first ever gold medal ahead of Germany's Monika Retschy, who earned her first World Cup medal with 2nd place. Akiyo Noguchi maintained her form from Chongqing after her slow start in Meiringen and Kazo, to finish in 3rd place.

Narasaki, Fujii and Rubtsov  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Narasaki, Fujii and Rubtsov
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The men's final was closely contested, but Kokoro Fujii of Japan took gold with two less attempts than teammate Tomoa Narasaki, fresh from his win in Chongqing two weeks ago. In third place was Alexey Rubtsov of Russia - a strong contender for the overall title, who is now sitting just behind Fujii in the overall ranking in 2nd place.

The next stop is Innsbruck, Austria in just three days' time.

Results below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Navi Mumbai (IND) 2016

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Miho NONAKA JPN 4t4 5b5 2t2 4b7 2t4 3b6
2 Monika Retschy GER 2t5 5b6 2t8 4b11 1t1 4b10
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t4 5b5 3t11 4b16 1t1 2b2
4 Melissa Le Neve FRA 4t4 5b5 1t1 3b4 1t1 2b2
5 Sol Sa KOR 3t4 5b5 3t11 4b15 1t1 2b6
6 Katharina Saurwein AUT 3t4 5b7 2t4 4b10 0t 2b7
7 Clementine KAISER FRA 4t5 5b6 1t2 3b6  
8 Fanny Gibert FRA 3t3 5b6 1t3 3b12  
9 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t5 5b5 1t3 2b6  
10 Hung Ying Lee TPE 4t5 5b5 1t7 3b16  
11 Leah Crane GBR 3t5 5b9 0t 2b5  
12 Berit Schwaiger AUT 2t2 5b5 0t 2b6  
13 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT 3t3 5b9 0t 2b9  
14 Mei KOTAKE JPN 4t8 5b8 0t 2b11  
15 Julia Pinggera AUT 2t6 4b6 0t 2b12  
16 Aya ONOE JPN 3t6 5b6 0t 1b3  
17 Elise Sethna CAN 2t3 4b6 0t 1b3  
18 Lisa Chulich USA 2t4 4b6 0t 1b8  
19 Ayari Sakamoto JPN 3t3 5b7 0t 0b  
20 Alannah Yip CAN 3t7 5b5 0t 0b  
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Kokoro FUJII JPN 5t5 5b5 2t5 4b11 3t4 4b4
2 Tomoa NARASAKI JPN 5t6 5b6 2t3 3b6 3t6 4b7
3 Alexey Rubtsov RUS 5t6 5b6 2t6 2b4 3t11 4b11
4 Jongwon CHON KOR 5t5 5b5 3t8 4b13 3t17 4b19
5 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 5t11 5b11 2t2 4b12 1t3 3b5
6 Jeremy Bonder FRA 5t5 5b5 2t5 4b7 0t 2b4
7 Naoki SHIMATANI JPN 5t13 5b12 1t3 1b1  
8 Tomoaki TAKATA JPN 5t7 5b7 0t 3b8  
9 Yoshiyuki OGATA JPN 5t7 5b7 0t 2b2  
10 Sean McColl CAN 5t7 5b7 0t 2b3  
11 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI 5t8 5b8 0t 2b3  
12 Tsukuru Hori JPN 5t9 5b8 0t 2b5  
13 Atsushi SHIMIZU JPN 5t12 5b12 0t 2b5  
14 Moritz Hans GER 5t13 5b13 0t 2b8  
15 Jernej Kruder SLO 5t7 5b7 0t 1b1  
16 Amir Nouri IRI 5t16 5b15 0t 1b1  
17 Alfons Dornauer AUT 5t18 5b18 0t 1b1  
18 Jan Hojer GER 5t6 5b6 0t 1b2  
19 Martin Stranik CZE 5t11 5b10 0t 1b2  
20 Keita WATABE JPN 5t7 5b7 0t 0b  

Full results

Watch the replay below:


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16 May, 2016
In terms of latitude, Mumbai is further south than Egypt. Seems like an odd choice for an event location going into summer.
16 May, 2016
How many rounds are there in a world cup season?
16 May, 2016
It varies year by year, depending upon how many host nations are willing to put the money up. But there is a max of 8 and a minimum of 3. This year there are 7 plus a World Championships. If there are more than 5 rounds you can drop one score. 5 rounds or less then all scores count.
16 May, 2016
All in all a pretty good event I thought, particularly for a first time. If a poor third world country with little history of climbing like India can stage something this good surely Britain should be able to at least equal it. What are we waiting for? I didn't care for the co-commentor much who seemed to be trying to big up the event at every opportunity and having him for both the semis and the final was too much. It gave the impression he did not have much confidence in the comp, when in fact it all seemed very good. I thought we might have had Shauna co-commentating for the final - a rare chance when she's not in the final. Also there was the usual lack of coordination between film crew and commentators. Surely this could be sorted in a variety of ways without too much difficulty. The most impressive thing for me was the two Japanese men doing the running problem first try. I'm guessing their team must have trained that kind of thing a fair bit. Great to see Miho finally get a gold too. She's been very consistent over the past few years so well deserved and surely someone to watch in the future.
16 May, 2016
Not so good per capita though. IMF: india at 122 vs uk at 25. World bank: india at 123 vs uk at 23. CIA: india at 131 vs UK at 30. src: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_by_GDP_(PPP)_per_capita
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