Unplugged & The House of shock, both 9a, by Koyamada

by Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2016
This news story has been read 5,593 times

Dai Koyamada on Underneath everything, 8c+, Frankenjura, Germany, 131 kbDai Koyamada on Underneath everything, 8c+, Frankenjura, Germany
© Koyamada coll.
Dai Koyamada is back in Frankenjura after eight years of absence. Now 40 years old, he seems as strong as ever and has already made quick work of several hard routes including Unplugged and The House of shock, both 9a.

Dai plans to stay in Europe for two months, but he hasn't wasted much time. He started off by repeating some 8c's in two, three goes, then he raised the level and made a 2nd go ascent of Underneath everything, 8c+, and repeated Alex Megos' Zootopia, 8c+/9a.

Then it was time to deal with some unfinished business in the form of Markus Bock's Unplugged at the Hardcore wand. Dai tried it eight years ago but hurt his finger in the process and couldn't continue. This time he needed six tries spread over two days to finish the job.

His next choice was another Bock route: The House of shock, 9a, at Rotenstein. Dai managed to climb the route even though the upper part was wet commenting that ...the last part was still wet so it felt much harder, actually it's not that hard if it's dry. I guess everything is relative though.

Dai Koyamada is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Evolv, Flashed, Inga and Musashi

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