UKC

Peter Habeler reclimbs Eiger North Face at 74

© Mountain Equipment

Austrian mountaineering legend Peter Habeler recently climbed the North face of the Eiger via the Heckmair Route once again, at the ripe old age of 74. He was partnered by 26 year old Austrian climber David Lama, who was climbing the Heckmair Route for the first time. In 1978, Peter made the first ascent of Everest without use of supplementary oxygen alongside Reinhold Messner.

Peter Habeler  © Mountain Equipment
Peter Habeler
© Mountain Equipment

Swiss professional alpinist Stephan Siegrist accompanied the pair alongside a film crew who were documenting the ascent for an upcoming film about Peter. Stephan has shared some photos on social media:

Commenting on Peter's ascent and on climbing with him, Stephan told UKC: 'Aside from Peter's incredible fitness, I was even more impressed with his pleasant character and how respectfully he treated people. There was no arrogance; he was very mellow and a very good team player.'

In 1974, Peter and Reinhold climbed the North face of the Eiger in a record time of just ten hours - an achievement that paved the way for fast Alpine ascents. The following year, a groundbreaking 'by fair means' ascent of Gasherbrum I by the same pair of climbers once again drew attention from the world of mountaineering, in a style which excluded fixed ropes, preestablished camps and oxygen. 

Climbing the classic Heckmair Route is impressive in itself, but at 74 years old Peter has proved that age is no barrier for him. It's a wonder young David Lama could keep up with him...

Watch a video interview with Peter from 2011 below:

 


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12 Apr, 2017
Wow!
12 Apr, 2017
He doesn't even look tired. Utter beast.
12 Apr, 2017
What a legend.
13 Apr, 2017
I remember walking past his ski school office one summer morning and he was just sat at a desk reading a newspaper and drinking coffee. Without thinking, like an overawed teen I raised a hand, like the legend he is raised one back in acknowledgement. Top Man.
13 Apr, 2017
[do not read further if you are offended of tired old UKC cliches] Yeah, but what's he done on grit?
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