Estado critico, 9a, by Alizée Dufraisse

by Björn Pohl - UKC Apr/2017
This news story has been read 4,866 times

Alizée Dufraisse on Estado critico, 9a, Siurana, Spain, 138 kbAlizée Dufraisse on Estado critico, 9a, Siurana, Spain
© Jacopo Larcher
Alizée Dufraisse has repeated Estado critico, 9a, at Siurana, Spain for its first female ascent.

She was really close to doing it last year, but as she had decided to compete in the bouldering World Cup and she had to leave empty handed.

This year she thought it would be a quick affair:

I was thinking that this project would probably be done quick, as I was very good on it last year. But my EGO was too strong, and the caracter of the rock and the route was not easy. After some time spent training in Fontainebleau, Ineeded to regain resistance (it is a pure line resistance, 8a/8a+ continuity for beginning with the same start than Kalea Borroka 8b+, then a traverse to the right and boulder problem with a finish 15/20 movements resistance). 

After having had to change beta because it had become too warm to hold a small crimp, she finally redpointed it on a day when she managed to climb without putting too much pressure on herself.

I went climbing with my love of climbing and without asking myself too much questions, and I had the chance and the pleasure to concretize one big project.

Alizée Dufraisse is sponsored by: Petzl, Tenaya and Trangoworld

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