IFSC Boulder World Cup: Hachioji - Report

by Natalie Berry - UKC May/2017
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The fourth round of the 2017 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Hachioji, Tokyo last weekend. 18 year-old Slovenian all-rounder Janja Garnbret won her second World Cup round with a convincing performance, whilst current women's overall leader Shauna Coxsey failed to make the podium, finishing in 4th place. The narrative of the Japanese team being on incredible form continued in this round, with the Japanese comprising four out of the six podium finishers. Russia's Aleksei Rubtsov placed 1st ahead of Tomoa Narasaki and Keita Watabe.

Janja Garnbret on top form in Hachioji, 107 kbJanja Garnbret on top form in Hachioji
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

After topping the semi-final rankings, Janja continued her reign in the final round, topping all four boulders. The first problem was rendered obsolete as all six athletes managed to flash the boulder. On the following problems, seasoned competitor Akiyo Noguchi of Japan gave Janja a run for her money in front of a home crowd. The final boulder decided the winner, as Janja topped within 5 attempts to finish ahead of Akiyo. A strong performance from young Japanese climber Miho Nonaka pushed Shauna off the podium on the powerful final boulder. Britain's Michaela Tracy qualified for the semi-finals and placed 10th overall in the semis. 

The men's final welcomed a new Japanese finalist once again: Taisei Ishimatsu, who was climbing in his first IFSC World Cup finals. His teammate Tomoa Narasaki topped M1 in front of an ecstatic home crowd, who continued his run of good form on M2 and M3. Russian Aleksei Rubtsov and Nanjing winner Keita Watabe put on the pressure with two tops each, but the podium positions came down to the last problem. Aleksei managed an impressive top and knocked Tomoa into 2nd place.

Keita currently leads the men's overall rankings by 33 points ahead of Aleksei, and Shauna leads Janja by just 8 points in the women's.

The following round will take place in Vail, Colorado on June 9th/10th.

Alexei Rubtsov climbed his way to first place, 168 kbAlexei Rubtsov climbed his way to first place
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji, Tokyo (JPN) 2017

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4t8 4b6 4t5 4b4
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t8 4b7 4t9 4b9
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 3t8 4b6 3t4 4b5
4 Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t9 4b5 2t2 3b3
5 Fanny Gibert FRA 3t3 4b4 2t6 4b12
6 Petra Klingler SUI 2t7 4b5 1t1 3b5
7 Chloe Caulier BEL 2t7 3b4  
8 Stasa Gejo SRB 2t10 4b6  
9 Alma Bestvater GER 1t1 4b6  
10 Michaela Tracy GBR 1t1 4b12  
11 Jain Kim KOR 1t1 3b4  
12 Aya Onoe JPN 1t1 3b5  
12 Lilli Kiesgen GER 1t1 3b5  
14 Sol Sa KOR 1t2 4b7  
15 Megan Mascarenas USA 1t4 4b7  
16 Anna Stöhr AUT 1t4 4b8  
17 Franziska Sterrer AUT 1t4 3b7  
18 Monika Retschy GER 0t 4b4  
19 Hung Ying Lee TPE 0t 3b7  
20 Mei Kotake JPN 0t 3b8  
21 Leah Crane GBR Qual' 3t4 5b5
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 3t3 3b3 3t8 4b13
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3t5 4b4 3t9 4b10
3 Keita Watabe JPN 4t13 4b6 2t5 3b6
4 Mickael Mawem FRA 2t2 4b4 1t1 4b8
5 Jakob Schubert AUT 3t5 4b5 1t2 3b5
6 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN 3t4 4b14 1t3 4b9
7 Jongwon Chon KOR 2t2 4b5  
8 Nicolas Pelorson FRA 2t3 3b3  
9 Kokoro Fujii JPN 2t4 3b3  
10 Jeremy Bonder FRA 2t4 3b4  
11 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2t6 4b4  
12 Manuel Cornu FRA 2t7 3b4  
13 Tyler Landman GBR 2t7 3b5  
14 Tsukuru Hori JPN 1t1 4b4  
14 Alban Levier FRA 1t1 4b4  
16 Gabriele Moroni ITA 1t2 4b4  
17 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 1t2 4b9  
18 Alex Khazanov ISR 1t2 3b4  
19 Kaito Watanabe JPN 1t3 3b12  
20 David Firnenburg GER 1t4 3b6  
25 David Barrans GBR Qual' 3t6 4b7
33 Matthew Cousins GBR Qual' 3t4 5b7
47 Orrin Coley GBR Qual' 2t3 2b2
59 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 2t11 5b17

Full results

Watch the finals replay below:

 

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