IFSC Boulder World Cup: Vail - Report

by Nick Brown - UKC 14/Jun/2017
This news story has been read 5,552 times

The fifth round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup took place over the weekend in Vail, Colorado. Shauna Coxsey returned to the top and extended her overall lead, making her dominant in the season rankings. In the men's, Jongwon Chon (KOR) topped all of the problems to clinch the gold medal. Interestingly, Japan once again showed how far ahead they are as a team, by taking 9 out of the top 10 places for the men in qualification and then sending 6 climbers to the final in men's and women's.

IFSC Vail World Cup 2017 - Women's Podium, 218 kb

Alex Puccio started the finals in fine form, by flashing a powerful problem which the other competitors struggled with. The slabby 2nd problem changed the pace and balance of the finals, with Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka and Shauna Coxsey reaching the finishing hold. All four of the afformentioned climbers topped out problem 3, leaving them all with two tops for the final climb. Shauna needed to top the final problem within 3 attempts and did so by completing a huge dyno in front of the roaring crowd.

For the men, every finalist completed the first problem, although the second was a different story with only Kokoro Fujii (JAP) and Jongwon Chon (KOR) managing it. Chon took the lead by carefully climbing the technical problem 3, quickly followed by Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS) and Meichi Narasaki (JAP). Like the women's, the men's came down to the final problem and Jongwon Chon emerged victorious.

IFSC Vail World Cup 2017 - Men's Podium, 238 kb

The Brits had a fantastic competition, as Shauna Coxsey, Michaela Tracy, Leah Crane and Tyler Landman all made Semi Finals. Michaela currently sits in 7th place overall.

The next round of the world cup is in Mumbai, India and you can tune in to the semi-finals on June 25th.

IFSC Vail World Cup 2017 - Shauna, 160 kb

Watch the full finals replay below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Vail (USA) 2017

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t6 4b5 3t4 4b5
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3t4 3b4 3t6 4b6
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 4t7 4b5 3t7 4b7
4 Alex Puccio USA 3t5 3b3 3t10 4b10
5 Katja Kadic SLO 4t8 4b6 1t3 2b4
6 Petra Klingler SUI 4t7 4b6 0t 1b2
7 Janja Garnbret SLO 3t6 3b6
8 Sol Sa KOR 2t4 3b6
9 Brooke Raboutou USA 2t7 3b9
10 Michaela Tracy GBR 1t2 3b5
11 Aya Onoe JPN 1t2 2b3
12 Katharina Saurwein AUT 1t3 3b11
13 Mei Kotake JPN 1t7 1b7
14 Berit Schwaiger AUT 0t 2b4
15 Alma Bestvater GER 0t 1b1
15 Megan Mascarenas USA 0t 1b1
15 Chloe Caulier BEL 0t 1b1
18 Meagan Martin USA 0t 0b
18 Lily Canavan USA 0t 0b
18 Leah Crane GBR 0t 0b
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jongwon Chon KOR 2t2 4b5 4t9 4b8
2 Meichi Narasaki JPN 2t2 2b2 3t6 3b5
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 4t10 4b7 3t11 4b7
4 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 3t9 3b6 2t5 3b8
5 Kokoro Fujii JPN 3t5 4b7 2t6 4b10
6 Keita Watabe JPN 2t3 2b3 1t3 1b3
7 Tsukuru Hori JPN 2t4 4b6
8 Jernej Kruder SLO 2t4 4b9
9 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t6 3b5
10 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2t9 4b12
11 Sean Bailey USA 1t2 4b14
12 Jorg Verhoeven NED 1t2 3b4
13 Sebastien Lazure CAN 1t2 2b2
14 Kevin Heiniger SUI 1t2 2b4
15 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN 1t3 3b7
16 Jan Hojer GER 1t4 3b4
17 Tyler Landman GBR 1t4 2b3
18 Alex Khazanov ISR 1t7 3b9
19 Kai Harada JPN 0t 3b7
20 Gabriele Moroni ITA 0t 2b2
Full results

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