UKC

Arco Climbing Ambassador Award for Mike Kosterlitz

© Mike Kosterlitz archive

Nobel Prize winning physicist and pioneering climber Mike Kosterlitz has been announced as the 2017 recipient of the prestigious Arco Rock Legends Climbing Ambassador award. The 74 year old Scottish born scientist is credited with the first ascent of some classic rock routes in the Italian Alps - including the eponymous Fessura Kosterlitz (f6B) 6a+ on Massi del Sergent in the Orco Valley and the rarely repeated Via degli Inglesi (ED) on Piz Badile, Bregaglia. Mike's influence within the Italian climbing scene catalysed progression towards modern alpinism.

photo
Mike Kosterlitz
© Mike Kosterlitz archive

Amongst numerous impressive ascents in the European Alps, Yosemite and beyond, Mike also made the first repeat of American Direct (ED1 6c+) (ED1) on Les Dru in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Mike played an understated yet influential role in developing modern European Alpine climbing by initiating the Nuovo Mattino or 'New Morning' movement in alpinism, in which limiting, old-fashioned values focussing on summits, nationalism and heroics were challenged in favour of creativity and technological advancement in free climbing.

Those with a keen eye may also have spotted Mike in Hard Rock - one of Ken Wilson's famous triptych of climbing books - on Gormenghast, E1 in Eskdale.

In 2016, Mike was named as one of three recipients of the shared Nobel Prize in Physics (UKC news report). Alongside two colleagues - David Thouless and Duncan Haldane - he was awarded a share of the prize 'for theoretical discoveries of topological phase transitions and topological phases of matter.'

Born in Aberdeen in 1943, Michael received his Ph.D. from Oxford University in 1969. Following a period as a postdoctoral researcher at Torino University in Italy - in convenient proximity to the Italian Alps - he became a research fellow at Birmingham University in 1970 before beginning work at Brown University in the USA in 1982.

The Arco Rock Legends Climbing Ambassador award is presented annually during the Rock Master Festival to an individual 'who has guided and influenced the development of climbing with their passion, vision and energy.'

On receiving it, Mike commented:

'My climbing years were very important to me and it is very special to be honored for my early climbing exploits.'

The award will be presented on Friday 25th August in Arco, Italy, during the 12th edition of the Arco Rock Legends awards - the "Oscars" of sport climbing. The late British climber John Ellison - founder of Climbers Against Cancer - was the recipient of the Climbing Ambassador award in 2015 (UKC news report).

*Stay tuned for an upcoming UKC interview with Mike, to which he has kindly agreed.*

More information on Mike and the award on the Arco Rockmaster 2017 website.


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29 Jun, 2017
Greatly deserved. The Gormenghast photo - notwithstanding other stellar achievements - was an early inspiration (& got me up the route!)
29 Jun, 2017
Any forum questions for Mike? He's agreed to an interview.
29 Jun, 2017
Great that he's been honoured in two such important domains in his life. I'm sure his Nobel prize was richly deserved and the Arco Rock Legends one certainly is. I'm always a little dubious about awards but when one goes like an arrow flight to someone utterly deserving, there's a warm glow inside. You think, 'They got it right!' Am looking forward to the interview. Have always regarded him as a legendary figure. Would be interested in knowing a little about his climbing partnership with the late Dick Isherwood. They seemed like a pair who could get up well-nigh anything at the time. Mick
29 Jun, 2017
How did he end up inspiring Italian climbers that much? Did he strike some long term friendships there? How's his Italian? How was it to walk in Valle dell'Orco with a view to Free things? Did he consider lines that hadn't been previously aided? If yes which ones?
29 Jun, 2017
Sounds like he gave up climbing some time ago. What prompted that?
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