IFSC Lead World Cup Villars: Report

by Natalie Berry - UKC Jul/2017
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The first IFSC Lead World Cup round of 2017 took place in Villars, Switzerland last weekend. Romain Desgranges of France continued in his current top form, following up his European Championship title from the previous weekend with another win, and reigning 2016 World Cup champion Janja Garnbret of Slovenia impressed once again in the final to take Gold.

16 year old Laura Rogora of Italy: one to watch out for, 147 kb
16 year old Laura Rogora of Italy: one to watch out for
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

16 year-old Italian climber Laura Rogora - known for her outdoor ascents up to 9a - proved that qualifying for her first ever senior final in the European Championships just one week earlier was no fluke, as she qualified once again for the final with a gutsy performance in the semi-finals, matching Korean former World Cup champion Jain Kim's highpoint to qualify in 2nd place on countback.

photo
Janja Garnbret in the spotlight shortly before topping out
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Despite having spent the majority of this year focusing on the Boulder World Cups, Janja Garnbret (SLO) pulled through in the final with a stunning climb, topping out after a delicate mantle and risky dyno to the final hold. Janja's compatriot Mina Markovic took 2nd place after rushing the jump to the last hold and missing, and 3rd place went to European Champion Anak Verhoeven (BEL).

Women's Podium: Markovic, Garnbret, Verhoeven, 196 kb
Women's Podium: Markovic, Garnbret, Verhoeven
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Romain Desgranges - fresh from his European Championship victory - qualified in 6th place for the final alongside an unusual mix of finalists. Lesser-known younger athletes such as Sean Bailey (USA), who placed 4th in Villars last year, Fedir Samoilov (UKR) and Yuki Hada (JPN) were met with more familiar faces in the form of Domen Skofic (SLO) and Jorg Verhoeven (NED).

photo
Jan Hojer impressed in his first Lead World Cup final
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The most surprising finalists were former European Boulder Champion Jan Hojer and teammate Christoph Hanke of Germany, who appeared to be at home on the volumes and powerful setting to qualify for their first lead World Cup finals. In the final, it was Romain once again who reached the highpoint just short of the top, closely followed by Domen and Fedir, who remarkably was competing in his first ever IFSC final. Jan missed out on the podium on countback to Fedir.

Men's winners: Skofic, Desgranges, Samoilov, 188 kb
Men's winners: Skofic, Desgranges, Samoilov
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The next round takes place from tomorrow in Chamonix, France.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Villars (SUI) 2017

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Romain Desgranges FRA 34 41
2 Domen Skofic SLO 34 37
3 Fedir Samoilov UKR 39 35+
4 Jan Hojer GER 34+ 35+
5 Yuki Hada JPN 34 35
6 Christoph Hanke GER 34+ 34
7 Jorg Verhoeven NED 34 33+
8 Sean Bailey USA 34+ 32
9 Hannes Puman SWE 34
10 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 34
11 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 33+
12 Kokoro Fujii JPN 33+
13 Jakub Konecny CZE 33+
14 Thomas Joannes FRA 33
15 Sebastian Halenke GER 33
16 Yuval Shemla ISR 32
17 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 30+
18 Marcello Bombardi ITA 30+
19 Nicolas Collin BEL 25+
20 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS 25+
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 39 Top
2 Mina Markovic SLO 37+ 42+
3 Anak Verhoeven BEL 39 37+
4 Jain Kim KOR 41+ 33+
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 35+ 33+
6 Laura Rogora ITA 41+ 31
7 Hannah Schubert AUT 34+ 28+
8 Mathilde Becerra FRA 36+ 12+
9 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 34+
10 Julia Chanourdie FRA 31+
11 Nolwenn Arc FRA 30+
11 Katherine Choong SUI 30+
11 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 30+
14 Alina Ring SUI 30+
15 Vita Lukan SLO 30+
16 Hélène Janicot FRA 30
17 Urska Repusic SLO 30
18 Katharina Posch AUT 30
19 Salomé Romain FRA 29
20 Nolwen Berthier FRA 29
Full results

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