IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix: Report

by Natalie Berry - UKC Jul/2017
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The second IFSC Lead World Cup round of 2017 took place in Chamonix, France last week. An unusual competition which saw over 80 tops throughout the competition raised questions as to the standard of the routesetting, with 7 tops in the final across both categories. Marcello Bombardi took home his first Gold medal after the result was decided on the fastest time, and reigning World Cup champion Janja Garnbret of Slovenia won Gold once again on countback to the semi-final round. Despite some disappointed competitors, the event attracted a huge crowd of spectators, who filled the square beneath Mont Blanc.

Chamonix local Romain Desgranges had the enthusiastic support of his home crowd , 149 kbChamonix local Romain Desgranges had the enthusiastic support of his home crowd
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

A stopper move in the semi-final round produced some surprising results for the women, with some regular finalists falling at a powerful throw over a lip. The line-up for the women's final included 3 first time finalists: Mia Krampl (SLO), Tina Johnsen Hafsaas (NOR) and Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR) climbing alongside some more familiar faces. European Champion Anak Verhoeven (BEL) smoothly topped the final route, only to comment that she expected more tops and wasn't sure to win.

Janja Garnbret stuns the crowd once again, 130 kbJanja Garnbret stuns the crowd once again
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Jain Kim (KOR) matched Anak's performance, running the time down to the last few seconds in her typical slow style. All eyes were on Janja as she also made light work of the climb to secure a win on countback to semis. Tina Johnsen Hafsaas fell a few moves short of the top and placed fourth, marking an impressive return from a long-term illness.

Women's podium: Kim, Garnbret and Verhoeven, 220 kbWomen's podium: Kim, Garnbret and Verhoeven
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The men's final also welcomed a mix of seasoned finalists and new faces, with Marcello Bombardi (ITA), Loic Timmermans (BEL) and Yuval Shemla (ISR) making their long-awaited first final, with Yuval becoming the first Israeli climber to make an IFSC final. Chamonix local Romain Desgranges (FRA) was first to tackle the route, and topped out easily in front of his home crowd. Like Anak previously, he was hesitant to celebrate, as he revealed in a livestream interview that he expected more tops to follow.

Young Italian climber Marcello Bombardi takes his first Gold medal, 131 kbYoung Italian climber Marcello Bombardi takes his first Gold medal
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Marcello Bombardi (ITA), Yuki Hada (JPN) and Keiichiro Korenaga (JPN) proved him right and the top two places were ranked based on the fastest time to climb the final route. Marcello took his first Gold medal in his first final with a time of 4 minutes 16 seconds, and Japanese teammates Keiichiro and Yuki took Silver and Bronze respectively. Romain missed out on a podium place in 4th position, despite his impressive performance in the final.

Men's podium: Korenaga, Bombardi, Hada, 153 kbMen's podium: Korenaga, Bombardi, Hada
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The next round takes place in Briancon, France on 28th-28th July.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Chamonix (FRA) 2017

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Marcello Bombardi ITA 36+ Top
2 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 36+ Top
3 Yuki Hada JPN 34+ Top
4 Romain Desgranges FRA 33+ Top
5 Loïc Timmermans BEL 36+ 42+
6 Sean McColl CAN 34+ 42
7 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 37+ 40+
8 Yuval Shemla ISR 34+ 35+
9 Kokoro Fujii JPN 32
9 Francesco Vettorata ITA 32
11 Jan Hojer GER 30
12 Hannes Puman SWE 26+
13 Piotr Schab POL 24
13 Domen Skofic SLO 24
15 Christoph Hanke GER 24
16 Sean Bailey USA 23+
16 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP 23+
16 David Firnenburg GER 23+
16 Hanwool Kim KOR 23+
16 Jorg Verhoeven NED 23+
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO Top Top
2 Jain Kim KOR 33+ Top
3 Anak Verhoeven BEL 32 Top
4 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR 32+ 37+
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 37 37
6 Julia Chanourdie FRA 31 33+
7 Mia Krampl SLO 33+ 32.5
8 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 36+ 30
9 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 31
10 Brooke Raboutou USA 31
11 Nolwenn Arc FRA 31
12 Hannah Schubert AUT 29
13 Mina Markovic SLO 28+
14 Vita Lukan SLO 28+
15 Salomé Romain FRA 28+
16 Mathilde Becerra FRA 28+
17 Risa Ota JPN 28+
18 Michelle Hulliger SUI 27+
19 Julia Fiser AUT 27+
20 Nolwen Berthier FRA 27+
Full results

Watch the highlights and full finals replay below:

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