Edu Marin and Sasha DiGiulian have repeated the 700m/12 pitch Mora Mora in the Tsaranoro valley, Madagascar. The crux of the very technical and delicate (and very sharp) climb is pitch 7, which weighs in around 8c.
© François Lebeau
The route was established by Spaniards Francisco Blanco and Toti Vales in 1999 and free climbed for the first time by a 17-year-old Czech kid called Adam Ondra in 2010. I wonder whatever happened to him...
This was the 2nd free ascent. Sasha says:
'So stoked to Free Climb this route with Edu Marin - it had been a goal of mine for a few years and I am excited to have arrived at a point in my fitness that I could send my hardest big wall climb yet! We each sent every pitch from the ground up and both lead the Crux.'
According to Ondra, the difficulty of the pitches are as follows:
P1 6a+, P2 6b, P3 7b, P4 7b+, P5 7b+, P6 7c+/8a, P7 8b+/8c, P8 6c+, P9 7a+, P10 7c+, P11 7b+, P12 4
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Return to Latest NewsEdu has climbed at the highest level from a very young age, red-pointing 8c at fifteen; on-sighting 8b+ at sixteen and climbing 9a at seventeen. He has climbed routes of 9b and achieved World Championship...
Athlete:
Climbing in two separate teams, Edu Marin, Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have all succeeded in freeing Eternal Flame (VI 7c+ [5.13a], 650m) on the south face of Trango Tower (6,240m), also known as Nameless Tower, in the Trango Group...
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