Edu Marin & Sasha DiGiulian repeat Mora Mora, 8c MP

by Björn Pohl - UKC 10/Aug/2017
This news story has been read 2,217 times

Sasha DiGiulian on the crux pitch of Mora Mora, 8c MP, Madagascar, 121 kbSasha DiGiulian on the crux pitch of Mora Mora, 8c MP, Madagascar
© François Lebeau
Edu Marin and Sasha DiGiulian have repeated the 700m/12 pitch Mora Mora in the Tsaranoro valley, Madagascar. The crux of the very technical and delicate (and very sharp) climb is pitch 7, which weighs in around 8c.

The route was established by Spaniards Francisco Blanco and Toti Vales in 1999 and free climbed for the first time by a 17 year old Czech kid called Adam Ondra in 2010. I wonder what ever happened to him...

This was the 2nd free ascent. Sasha says:

'So stoked to Free Climb this route with Edu Marin - it had been a goal of mine for a few years and I am excited to have arrived at a point in my fitness that I could send my hardest big wall climb yet! We each sent every pitch from the ground up and both lead the Crux.'

According to Ondra, the difficulty of the pitches are as follows:

P1 6a+, P2 6b, P3 7b, P4 7b+, P5 7b+, P6 7c+/8a, P7 8b+/8c, P8 6c+, P9 7a+, P10 7c+, P11 7b+, P12 4

Full story.

Sasha DiGiulian is sponsored by: Petzl, Red Bull and adidas

Edu Marin is sponsored by: Boreal, Entre-Prises and Mammut

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