IFSC Lead World Cup Arco: Report

by Natalie Berry - UKC Aug/2017
This news story has been read 3,062 times

The fourth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in the historic climbing village of Arco, Italy last weekend. 19 year old GB team member Molly Thompson-Smith finished in 8th place and took 3rd in the famous Arco Duel - a head-to-head speed climb on a lead route - becoming the first British athlete to reach a senior World Cup final in lead since Lucy Creamer in 2003. 18 year old Jim Pope narrowly missed out on finals in 13th place - his best result yet in his second ever senior event. Korea's Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert of Austria were the surprise winners of this round.

Molly Thompson-Smith (GBR) finished 8th in Arco, 221 kb
Molly Thompson-Smith (GBR) finished 8th in Arco
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

A technical women's final route caused timing issues for many of the competitors, who either timed out or were at risk of doing so had they reached past the lower cruxes. All eyes were on Ashima Shiraishi (USA) as she made her World Cup debut and qualified for the final alongside Molly and some more seasoned finalists. Jain Kim overcame a risky jump move with static technique to match the early highpoint of Anne-Sophie Koller (SUI), just as she timed out. Jain took Gold on countback. Favourites for the win Janja Garnbret (SLO) and Anak Verhoeven (BEL) were stopped in their tracks by the same move and settled for 3rd and 6th place respectively.

Arco winner Jain Kim, 188 kb
Arco winner Jain Kim
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Commenting on her performance, Molly told UKC:

'Getting the chance to compete in my first WC finals in Arco was such an amazing experience. It was nice to feel comfortable and not out of place during the competition and I'm glad that my physical and mental performances are constantly improving. It was even cooler to be able to compete in the Rockmaster Duel that evening! Super excited for the next World Cup, especially as it's at home (kind of!) in Edinburgh.'

Adam Ondra competing in Arco, 196 kb
Adam Ondra competing in Arco
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the men's event, Alex Megos (GER) dominated the previous rounds, but unfortunately fell early in the final on a blind slap around the arête. Time was an issue once again for the men on a steep route filled with volumes, as Jakob Schubert (AUT) timed out whilst setting a highpoint at 39. Adam Ondra (CZE) and Max Rudigier (AUT) were close behind on 38+ with some time left to spare.

Men's Podium: Ondra, Schubert, Rudigier, 209 kb
Men's Podium: Ondra, Schubert, Rudigier
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Women's podium: Koller, Kim, Garnbret, 239 kb
Women's podium: Koller, Kim, Garnbret
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The next round takes place at EICA Ratho near Edinburgh, on 23rd-24th September.

Watch the replays below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Arco (ITA) 2017

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jakob Schubert AUT 32+ 39
2 Adam Ondra CZE 36 38+
3 Max Rudigier AUT 36 38+
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 32+ 34+
5 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 32+ 33+
6 Thomas Joannes FRA 36 26+
7 Hannes Puman SWE 35+ 26
8 Alexander Megos GER 44+ 11+
9 Marcello Bombardi ITA 32+
10 Romain Desgranges FRA 32
11 Masahiro Higuchi JPN 31+
12 Elan JonasMcRae CAN 31+
13 James Pope GBR 30
14 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP 29+
15 Hanwool Kim KOR 28+
16 Sean Bailey USA 28+
16 Francesco Vettorata ITA 28+
18 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 28
19 Christoph Hanke GER 27
20 Martin Tekles GER 26+
28 William Bosi GBR Qual' 39+ 27.
41 David Barrans GBR Qual' 29+ 46.
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jain Kim KOR 28+ 38
2 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 28+ 38
3 Janja Garnbret SLO 33 32+
4 Julia Chanourdie FRA 28+ 32+
5 Ashima Shiraishi USA 28 32+
6 Anak Verhoeven BEL 28+ 31+
7 Jessica Pilz AUT 28+ 31+
8 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR 28+ 20+
9 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR 28
10 Margo Hayes USA 28
11 Laura Rogora ITA 27+
12 Salomé Romain FRA 27+
13 Katherine Choong SUI 27+
14 Risa Ota JPN 27+
15 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS 25+
16 Claire Buhrfeind USA 25+
17 Kyra Condie USA 23+
18 Mathilde Becerra FRA 23
19 Hannah Schubert AUT 20+
20 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA 20+
33 Hannah Slaney GBR Qual' 29+ 28.
50 Kitty Morrison GBR Qual' 23+ 48.
51 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 22+ 50.
Full results

Forums ( Read more )
This has been read 3,062 times

Related posts