UKC

Jenya Kazbekova climbs Güllich, 8c+

© Ilia Karpenko

Jenya Kazbekova on Güllich, 8c+, Red Stone, Crimea  © Ilia Karpenko
Jenya Kazbekova on Güllich, 8c+, Red Stone, Crimea
© Ilia Karpenko
Ievgeniia "Jenya" Kazbekova has repeated Güllich, 8c+, at Red Stone, Crimea in Ukraine. This was the first female ascent of the route and the first 8c+ for Jenya.

The route is located on very beautiful rock. I can say, that I grew up on it. It is at the Red Stone crag on the Crimea peninsula.

The line is very beautiful, on a mostly vertical wall with a small overhang in the end.

The first six quickdraws are the most difficult part of the route. There are very small crimps and lots of technical moves.

In the end, you have a few powerful moves, that makes you a little bit nervous after the big vertical part.

I think, foot work is very important in that kind of route.

The first time I tried it was ten days ago, and I didn't expect that it would work so good. Already in the first attempt I was able to make all moves, and that was very motivating, cause before just men were able to climb it.

So, it is first female ascent of "Güllich".

I am very happy that I could send it!

20 year old Jenya has had a very good season on the competition circuit. In Chamonix in July she reached her first World Cup final in Lead and at the European Bouldering Championships in Munich she finished 13th.

Jenya Kazbekova is sponsored by: C.A.M.P, Nihil and Scarpa


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