Roland Hemetzberger repeats WoGü, 8c multi pitch

by Björn Pohl - UKC 04/Oct/2017
This news story has been read 7,487 times

Roland Hemetzberger on WoGü, 8c multi pich, Rätikon, 85 kb
Roland Hemetzberger on WoGü, 8c multi pich, Rätikon
© Black Diamond equipment
Roland Hemetzberger has repeated Beat Kammerlander's WoGü on the seventh Kirchlispitzen in the Rätikon range. The route was equipped by Kammerlander, who also made the first ascent in 1997, and it was freed by a 15 year old Adam Ondra in 2008.

With pitches of 8c, 8a, 8c, 8b+, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+, it's a contender for the hardest multi-pitch in Europe.

Nalle Hukkataival asked me approximately 1.5 years ago if I would like to joined WOGÜ with him- and I was on. After the second day my middle finger pulley was through- big setback for 3 months. I committed all to Nalle and belayed and supported him- but he was unlucky because of bad weather.

During my break and the following winter months, my dream to climb WOGÜ grew immensely. This year I followed a straight plan and gave all my energy and effort to this route- and spent a lot of time on the 350m wall. The climbing is so demanding, brutally fingery and sustained.

Last Thursday it was so barely close…

Three times I fell in the last 40m long 8b+, always on the last meters to the anchor- my mental batteries were so empty and I had insane cramps in my arms.

Two days after on the 30.09, I climbed in a unique flow—
I sent every pitch on my first go and reached the summit at 19:00 with tears in my eyes.

I coiled up the ropes and realized I climbed one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs in the world- as well 15min after, it began to rain.

So there was no time gap left for another try— destiny?

Roland's ascent is the 3rd after Adam Ondra and Edu Marin, who repeated it a year ago.

Roland Hemetzberger is sponsored by: Black Diamond and Five Ten

Forums ( Read more )
This has been read 7,487 times