UKC

Two 9a's in a week by Seb Bouin

© Tilby Vattard

After attempting his long term project Move, 9b/+, at Flatanger in Norway, Seb Bouin took two weeks off to recover. Then he decided to re-start in Italy where he repeated two 9a's in a week.

Seb Bouin on the La côte d'usure project in the Ramirole sector, Verdon  © Tilby Vattard
Seb Bouin on the La côte d'usure project in the Ramirole sector, Verdon
© Tilby Vattard

After good fight in Move (9b/9b+) in Norway, I needed to rest. So I took two weeks off.

To re-start, I decided to go to Italy in order to do easier routes.

First we went in Camaiore, in San Rocchino crag. I did some onsights up to 8b the two first days. Then I decided to visit "La terza eta", 9a, climbed by Adam Ondra only.

Well, I was pretty surprised to do all the sections. I decided to try it, even if it could be too hard for a re-start after 2 weeks off.

Finally, I did it in eight goes. Humm, ok for the moment.

Then, I decided to visit "Naturalemente", a 9a+ climbed by Adam ondra only; But it was too hard to do in just a couple of days.

So, we stopped for three days on the way back at the Castelbianco crag. There I tried "Perfect Man", 9a, climbed by Mateo Ganbaro and Adam Ondra. I did the third ascent in six tries.

For this one I found different beta compared to Mateo Ganbaro which maybe made the route a little bit easier. We will wait for the next repetitors and then discuss about the grade.

For a re-start week I am pretty happy, even if I know that the real objectives are not these ones.


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Seb is one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world with many hard routes including quite a few in the 9a-9b range under his belt including Mamichula, Chilam Balam and his own Les...

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