UKC

New Malham 8c by Steve McClure - The Reign is Over

© Keith Sharples

Steve McClure has proved that Malham Cove is not yet 'climbed-out' by establishing a new 8c on the Upper Tier named The Reign is Over. The name alludes to the recent spell of good weather which enabled the first ascent, as well as to the all-consuming routes which Steve has dedicated a significant chunk of time to.

Posting on Facebook, Steve commented:

'This marks the end of the affair I've had on the walls below, with a single section of rock ruling over my life for 15 years! These routes; Batroute, Batman, Rainman, Rainshadow, Overshadow and Batshadow, have reigned over me, pushed me and forced me to be my best. It's been a good run. Now I've broken out.'

However, it seems as though this may not be the end of Steve's Malham campaign.

'You watch - I'll be back, I'm sure I spotted a line of holds out there somewhere...' he wrote on Facebook.

The route is in a 'wild' position, with the crux involving pulling over the lip. It begins up The Toad of Beck Hall (F7b+) before breaking new territory with a hard boulder problem and steep moves through the roof above. The Reign is Over is one of the hardest routes on the Upper Tier, with John Dunne's Total Eclipse 8c+ remaining the most difficult. Steve required just two days of effort this season to complete the project.

He told UKC:

'The awesome boulder problem roof is straight out of The Foundry Wave - lucky I'd climbed there a fair bit this winter! Turning the lip is maybe the crux, with 80m of air below! Awesome!'

In June last year, Steve established the UK's hardest sport route and became the first Brit to climb 9b with Rainman (UKC interview) on Malham's Catwalk. The line took over 100 sessions over 10 seasons since 2010 to complete.


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Steve McClure is one of the best rock climbers in the world, having climbed the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b, numerous new routes at the grade of 9a and onsighted many at 8b+. Despite being better known for his...

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23 Apr, 2018

This is great news, it's an incredible line. There must be a few more up there for those with talent. It'd be interesting to know how hard it is just to the roof as I've often wondered why Toad of Beck Hall had never been extended that far, at least. 

24 Apr, 2018

Nice one Steve! Keep up the good work.

24 Apr, 2018

8b. It had a few bolts already which were put in some time ago by Mick Lovatt I gather but none through the roof.

 

 

24 Apr, 2018

Thanks comrade. 

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