UKC

La Cène du (Roi) Lézard, 9b, by Pirmin BertleVideo

© Pirmin Bertle

On 1 Nov last year, Pirmin Bertle made the first ascent of La Cène du Lézard at Jansegg, Switzerland. He calls it his hardest to date and suggests 9b. After the long winter at 1800m elevation was over, he went back and filmed it.

Pirmin says: The line contains the first 8m of Le Roi Lézard (8c+) until a rather bad rest (8b/8b+ up to there). Then turns right into the 8B crux of Des scènes bizarres… (9a+) and finally adds a "new" last 8A+ jump that results from a broken hold. To be finished into some meters of 7b+.

This was Pirmin's second 9b FA after Meiose at Charmay. Meiose was repeated by Adam Ondra in January this year. He did it 3rd go and called it soft 9a+. This sparked some controversy as Pirmin didn't agree much at all. I guess we'll leave it to future repeaters to settle the score.

Pirmin Bertle is sponsored by: Bleed, Maiday, Petzl and Scarpa


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17 May, 2018

Let me save you the trouble,   

The actual climbing starts about half way through this video after a rather badly lit and not very interesting piece to camera, followed by the most incredibly annoying editing style that repeats every move four/five/six times from differnt camera angles in chunks of two or three seconds. I lasted about a minute of this before binning it.

This may be the best route in the world but nothing would possess me to watch this film to find out!  1/10

 

17 May, 2018

Hmmm, I thought that apart from the rather pretentious first half the climbing footage was superb - especially the all points off dyno. I quite like the different angles. I was disappointed there was only the distant view of the very last section, though...

17 May, 2018

from 4min10s    I'd give it 8/10.  

Lo-fi,  but in a good way, a bit jumpy, but edited well to a decent dance track.  Thanks for sharing it.

17 May, 2018

Yep. Incredibly annoying. I lasted a bit longer in the hope that they would stop but they didn't.

17 May, 2018
-))

 

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