This autumn saw 3 attempts to climb the unclimbed Teng Kangpoche 6500m in the Khumbu region of Nepal from the north side. The mountain has probably had an unofficial ascent from the south some time ago, but this remains an unknown mystery. The first attempt saw Nick Bullock, Jules Cartwright and Al Powell reach 5400m after 2 days. Bullock became ill (he was unconcious for 40 minutes) and they descended on the 3rd day. Bullock reports superb climbing on the 1600m face of "Scottish IV goulotte action" similar to the North Face of the Grande Jorasses.

On the 2nd attempt, Bullock and Cartwright (Powell ran out of time and had to head home) climbed to a high point in a single 11 hour push in terrible winds, loosening rocks, ice and powder avalanches which funnelled down their line, making it a "death trap". At their high point they waited it out a night and day but the winds continued so they descended on the 3rd day.

Continued below...