#1 - Ascents from around the world
We're starting a weekly summary of noteworthy ascents from around the globe. It's been an unusual summer for rock climbing with countries in different stages of lockdown. Despite this, there have been some impressive ascents, most notably from climbers who would usually be in the middle of their competition season, or even getting ready for the Olympic opening ceremony this evening!
Hard Boulders for Brooke Raboutou and Alex Puccio!
At the end of lockdown, we reported that both Brooke Raboutou and Alex Puccio had made hard ascents in Coal Creek Canyon, including Raboutou's first Font 8B+ with an ascent of Muscle Car. Both have continued their run of form by ticking off multiple 8Bs. A few weeks ago, Raboutou climbed Automater (8B), whilst Puccio repeated it for the second time.
More recently, the pair spent some time at Upper Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain Park. Raboutou spent a session working out the moves on Wheel of Chaos (8B/+), before climbing it on her first attempt in the next session. Both climbers went on to tick Doppelgänger Poltergeist (8B) on the same day.
Amazing day in upper upper yesterday with @alex_puccio89 and @robinoleary I was able to send the legendary Wheel of Chaos V13/8B first try today after working out the moves late a few days ago! I then sent Doppelgänger Poltergeist V13/8B! And of course, ended the day with some send ice-cream 🍦🥳 • 📸 on Wheel of Chaos by @alex_puccio89
Laura Rogora climbs The Bomb (9a)
The 19-year-old Olympic climber climbed a pumpy 9a called The Bomb in Collepardo. According to 8a.nu, the Italian climber has now ticked 13 routes that are graded 8c+/9a or harder.
In June, she redpointed her first 9a+ - Pure Dreaming Plus – making her the fifth woman to climb the grade. She is certainly one to watch out for in Tokyo and perhaps even Paris in 2024.
Today I climbed again in collepardo after a long time and I had the opportunity to climb some new routes: - "the bomb" 💣 a super pumpy 9a established by @perifabrizio a few months ago ✅ - "fine dei giochi" 8a+/b flash 🙂 ✅ 📸 @andrevdonato . . . #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #picoftheday #loveclimbing #climbforlife #escalade #escalada #grimper #klettern #montura #wildclimb #campcassin #italy #rome #bomber #instagood #instalike #instagram @climbskinspain @agripp_climbingholds @montura_official @wildclimb @fiammeoromoena @dao_sport
Staša Gejo & Karoline Sinnhuber on Jack's Broken Heart
Two climbers that are usually associated more with competitions have been in Magic Wood, Switzerland, where they both made ascents of the classic Font 8A+, Jack's Broken Heart.
The problem was Gejo's first of the grade, which is surprising for such an accomplished competition climber, although she rarely climbs outdoors. She is now back in Munich continuing her training for the European Championships in November.
For Sinnhuber, Jack's Broken Heart was her 11th of the grade – a fine alternative to her cancelled trip to South Africa.
I usually don't boulder outdoors, especially after the knee injury. Nevertheless, I decided to have a weekend in Magic Wood. Without any expectations, but with some approximate plans it turned out to be a great trip with an amazing group of people. Amongst other minor ticks, I managed to "heal" Jack's broken heart (8A+) in two short sessions. What an amazing line. Even from home I knew it would suit me well. Maybe I come back soon for some more gems 😊 Now back to the gym-rat life 💪🏼 📷 @mattwoidy @scarpaspa @trangoworldofficial @climbskinspain @morphoholds @wingschalk #weirdfingers #bouldering #outdoor #magicwood
Font 8C's for Alex Megos
At the start of July, Alex Megos made the first ascent of a well-known project in the Frankenjura and named it after the Beyonce song 'Upgrade U'. It took the German around ten days of effort and a lot of beta refinement. Commenting on the difficulty, Megos said: 'I believe it's the hardest boulder in the Frankenjura at the moment.'
He also ticked Felix Knaub's Half Life (8C) – the second ascent of the problem. Megos found slightly different beta and used a kneepad: 'The first ascent of this boulder was made without knee pad (and with slightly different beta too), which means I cheated. Therefore, I won't claim any grade.'
We're not sure a kneepad constitutes cheating these days, Alex!
A productive trip to Austria for Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra spent a couple of days in Austria bouldering and sport climbing. Most climbers would be happy to achieve his ticklist over the course of a lifetime, but it's pretty standard for Ondra these days. On day one, he flashed a Font 8B called Zwerg Bums di, before switching to bolts and ticking Walk the Line (9a) on his third attempt.
The following day he went to Schleierwasserfall and made the second ascent of a 19-year-old Alex Huber 8c+ called Orca, which he promptly suggested was 9a. He then onsighted a new 8c/+, calling it Warme Dusche.
Ticklist from the last two days: Day 1 Zillertal Zwerg Bums di 8B flash (see a video) Nihilist sit 8B+ very close flash go, then no more skin to do the first move Walk the Line 9a 3rd go Pacemaker 8b flash Californication 8a+ onsight Day 2 Schleier Wasserfall Orca 9a (I suggest upgrade from Alex Huber 8c+, 1st repeat after 19 years) Warme Dusche 8c/c+ onsight (linkup of Eiszeit into Black Pearl) #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #adamondra #zillertal #austria
Foundation's Edge (Font 8C) for Dylan Chuat
19-year-old Dylan Chuat climbed his first Font 8C with an ascent of Dave Graham's Foundation's Edge in Fionnay, Switzerland. Before lockdown, the Swiss climber had just climbed his first 8A+ and to progress to 8C in less than five months is extraordinary. It took Dylan ten sessions to complete the problem and he became the fourth person to climb it.
Watch the nail-biting video below:
💥Boooom last night I managed to do Foundation Edge, 4th person to make this boulder and my first ever 8c boulder 🤩💥!! I am so happy to have made this hard and beautiful line in not so many sessions. At the beginning, I unfortunately didn't move much. But by the 4th session, I did a very promising attempt which made me realize that I could actually make it. I worked hard on this boulder and finally made it in less than 10 sessions !! - I have never been so happy to make a boulder in my life ... - FA by @dave_graham_ in 2014. - Huge thanks to @rem.dgn 🙏🏼who came with me every time and filmed my attempts (for example coming with me last night at midnight 😅). - - @lookingforwildofficial @lookmontagne @compex.swiss @flathold . - - - #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbinglife #climbing_lovers #climbingtraining #climbingrocks #climbingboulder #climbingbouldering #climbingboulderingworld #bouldering #boulder #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #bouldering_videos_of_instagram #boulderinglife #boulderlife #outdoorclimbing #8cboulder #v15 #swissbouldering #swissboulder
Video of Drew Ruana on Box Therapy (Font 8C+)
Earlier this week, we reported that Drew Ruana had made the second ascent of Daniel Woods' Box Therapy in Rocky Mountain National Park. Mellow have just released footage of his ascent: