#14 Hubble, Bleau Blocs and more Hard Sport
In this week's round-up, a mix of hard sport and bouldering from Europe and the US...
Hubble 9a by Buster Martin
Buster Martin recently made the tenth ascent of Hubble 9a at Raven Tor in just a handful of sessions. His ascent came less than two weeks after Mat Wright's repeat (UKC News).
Since Mat's successful use of a 'knee-scum' on the line in September, Buster was curious to try this beta for himself. Initially sceptical, Buster eventually came round to the idea. Writing on Instagram, he commented:
'The knee bar? Yeah I used it, and it makes it easier, but not by much. I was apprehensive at first. But once I tried it and got on redpoint I realised that it was more dignified for the history and route to not make it an eliminate. Fortunately it doesn't massivley change the nature of the route, the history and my satisfaction with the send.'
He added: 'Great to climb this piece of history today, a childhood dream realised.'
In November 2019, Buster ticked his first 9a+ with an ascent of Chris Sharma's First Ley in Margalef, becoming only the second Brit to climb a confirmed 9a+.
Montserrat Multi-pitch for Edu Marin
Edu Marin has climbed a 6-pitch, 200m 8c+ in Montserrat, naming it Arco Iris. The individual pitches break down as follows: 6a ,6c, 8b+, 8c+, 8b and 8a+. Marin began climbing in the area and completed the climb whilst being belayed by his father.
In 2019, Marin completed one of the hardest multi-pitches in the world in Getu, China; a 304m, 14-pitch route that climbed through a huge roof that he eventually graded 9a+.
The video below shows the crux sequence of the 8c+ pitch of Arco Iris:
Jakob Schubert on fire in Arco
Jakob Schubert has had an impressive trip to Arco with the Austrian Climbing Team. During the first three days he climbed Thunder Ribes (9a), Zauberfee (8c+), 5 Uve (8c) onsight, Natural Present (8c/+), and Mr Teroldego (8c). He then had a rest day, followed by ascents of Terra Piata (8b+) onsight, and a flash of Zero Tolleranza (8b+/8c). On the sixth day of the trip he climbed Omen Nomen (9a). An utterly incredible ticklist from one of the Olympic favourites.
New 9a+ for Carlo Traversi
Carlo Traversi has made the first ascent of a new 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe. Writing on his Instagram, he said: It's rare to find something that not only challenges you in a way that nothing else has but also happens to be the best piece of rock you've ever climbed on.'
Empath took Traversi around 15 days to clean, bolt and redpoint. The route has already been repeated by Jimmy Webb, who also introduced Traversi to the crag, and Daniel Woods who said that the route was 'power resistance climbing at its finest.' The route was Webb's first 9a+.
Fontainebleau spree for Simon Lorenzi
Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has been on a rampage in Fontainebleau, ticking climbs such as The Big Island (Font 8C). Quoi de Neuf (Font 8B+) and Satan i helvet low (Font 8B+). The 23-year-old made his mark on the competition climbing scene as a youth, winning World Cups in both Lead and Boulder.
Uncut Dave Graham Footage
Mellow have released the uncut footage of Dave Graham climbing his first 9b with an ascent of Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total in the Ali Baba Cave, Rodellar. In the video, Dave can be seen using some pretty new school tactics, from kneepads on both legs, tying in halfway, and someone following him with a portable fan...