#5 - Céüse Sends, Alpine Jaunts and More...
In this week's ticklist, we've got a variety of sport, trad multipitch, alpine and bouldering ascents to inspire you ahead of the weekend...
8b Flash by Molly Thompson-Smith
Just a few days after we reported her 8b onsight at Götterwandl, Molly Thompson-Smith had made her way to Céüse and flashed the classic L'Ami de Tout le Monde. From her Instagram posts, it sounds like the crux for Molly was the hot uphill slog to the crag!
"I think this last week of climbing must've been my best week of climbing ever!" she wrote on Instagram.
Mister Hyde 8c+ by Mélissa Le Nevé, Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal
Sticking with Céüse sends, GB Team members Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal have been touring European crags and stopped off at the French sport climbing hub for a while in their van. Both were inching closer to the big tick and their natural competitive rivalry started to rear its head at times, Alex wrote on Instagram, but fortunately both of them managed the route in consecutive attempts and walked down as friends! The route is a bouldery, dynamic number at the famous Biographie sector.
In the same week, retired IFSC World Cup boulderer Mélissa le Nevé made the first female ascent of the route. She is clearly retaining her good form since her first female ascent of Action Directe 9a earlier this year. In an Instagram Story, Mélissa dedicated her ascent to Luce Douady, the 16-year-old French rising star who died in an accident on 14 July. Luce had been projecting Mister Hyde and was coming close to the tick in the weeks prior to her death.
Des Kaisers Neue Kleider 8b+ in a Day by Nico Favresse and Seb Berthe
Belgian duo Nico Favresse and Seb Berthe continued their #zeroco2 climbing tour (completed on bikes and accompanied by dogs in their trailers and an inflatable flamingo) with a one-day ascent of Stefan Glowacz's in Austria's Wilder Kaiser. The pair started the route with low expectations in the rain but were thankfully graced with improving conditions as they climbed higher, before topping out at 5.a.m. the next day. Three big routes have now been ticked-off in rapid succession: Silbergeier 8b+ (Rätikon), Headless Children 8b (Rätikon) and Des Kaisers Neue Kleider 8b+.
Central Pillar of Frêney solo in a Day by Leo Gheza
One from earlier this month - Italian alpinist Leo Gheza made a one-day solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc Massif. Leo climbed the Bonington route from Val Veny, on the pillar that was known as 'The Last Great Problem of the Alps' prior to Bonington and team's historic first ascent in August 1961. Leo is unsure whether this is the first solo ascent in a day, but it's an impressive ascent regardless of stats.
Merci la vie in a day for Nina Caprez and Roger Schaeli
A year after she finished bolting the route Merci la vie with Roger Schaeli, Nina Caprez and Roger Schaeli have climbed the route in a day. Situated on the 'Genferpfeiler' on the Eiger's North Face, the route appears to be very steep. Nina freed all 8 pitches in a single day after spending two days working the route. She's offered no clue on the difficult as of yet, but knowing Nina's CV, it's likely to be hard...
Hard new problem for Charles Albert
Charles Albert, the barefoot beast, has climbed a direct version of Dave Graham's Foundation's Edge in Fionnay, Switzerland. He has named the problem 'Harder Better Faster' and his ascent came after a 'day of hitchhiking, a night spent in the rain curled up under a pebble and deplorable humidity conditions.'
Dave Graham climbed Foundation's Edge in 2013 and believed the problem to be a solid Font 8C. The line heads out right towards the end and if Albert's direct version is harder, then it's likely to weigh in at the same grade or 8C+.
Pete Whittaker solos Renshaw / Foulkes route on Kjerag, Norway
Eschewing his usual rope soloing gear, Pete Whittaker has free-soloed the Renshaw / Foulkes route on Kjerag in Norway. The route is roughly 800m long, 20 pitches and around E3/F6b (n6+) and took him 2 hours and 25 minutes.
Pete told UKC: 'I climbed Kjerag for the first time back in 2018 and did it a bunch of times, so I got an idea of what the wall was like; the rock, the size of it and roughly how long it takes to climb, which gave me a general understanding.
'The hardest part when climbing anything big by yourself is always setting off. Climbing is easy, it's committing to the wall which is difficult. The only way it's possible to set off on these things is if you actually get excited about the climbing or get excited to climb well. Even if you're nervous, you have to set off wanting to be there.'
Pete climbed the route two days previous to his solo and was specifically looking out for loose rock, moving chockstones, flakey looking footholds and wet cracks:
'When I climbed on Monday I skipped using anything I thought was remotely suspicious. Quite often I actually made a slightly harder move, would reach further, step higher or wedge myself deeper to make sure I was using rock that was solid and secure. I climbed in a much less risky way than if I'd had a rope on.'