#7 - E8s by MacLeod and McHaffie, Women on Form and Alpine Records
This week's ticklist is another mixed bag of varied ascents from the UK and further afield...
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey soloed in 1:30:14 by Filip Babicz
Polish climber Filip Babicz, who is based in the Aosta Valley, soloed up the South Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in a staggering 1 hour, 30 minutes and 14 seconds. The previous record was 2 hours 45 minutes.
Just one month prior to this ascent, Filip soloed and made the first repeat of the marathon Alpine route and 'longest ridge in the Alps' - the Integralissima de Peuterey, in a mind-blowing 17 hours. Some context: the route is 8000m long with > 4000m of altitude gain and involves 900m of abseiling. It follows the Peuterey Ridge from the bottom of the valley, up through Mont Rouge, Tête de Chasseurs, Aiguille Noire, Dames Anglaises, Aiguille Blanche, Grand Pillier d'Angle, Monte Bianco di Courmayeur and up to the summit of Mont Blanc.
Dave MacLeod E8 FA and Repeat
Returning to his pre-lockdown haunt, Dave MacLeod added a new E8 6c to Binnein Shuas, which he has named The Great Reset. Not long after, he also made the second ascent of Iain Small's Shuas line Go Hard Go Early E8 6c.
Pembroke E8 double by James McHaffie
After being inspired by Emma Twyford's ascent a few weeks ago, James McHaffie returned to Pembroke and went home with two E8s in hand: Do You Know Where Your Children Are E8 6c and Nothing to Fear E8 6c.
Jeremy Bonder repeats Satan I Helevete 8C
French boulderer Jeremy Bonder has made the first repeat of Oriane Bertone's proposed 8C Satan I Helvete Bas in Fontainebleau, which has a direct and different finish to Alban Levier's original line. Commenting on Instagram, Jeremy explained that he struggled to decide on the grade as the problem suits him, but that he had discussed it with Oriane.
Odysee repeat on Eiger North face
Not content with completing the Alpine Trilogy by bike (and with their dogs in tow) and the hard multipitch Headless Children in just two weeks, Belgian duo Nico Favresse and Séb Berthe decided to head for the North Face of the Eiger, where they made a one-day free ascent of its hardest route, Odysee (8a+, 1400m). The pair took 18 hours to complete the line, and Nico made a fall-free ascent by either onsighting or flashing all 33 pitches. Seems like the crux of their trip was arranging doggy daycare...
Stew Watson climbs 'Kein Licht Kein Schatten' 9a
Ex-pat Stew Watson, who lives in Austria, has climbed Jakob Schubert's Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a, his second of the grade. The route at Elenfantenwand in Ötztal was bolted by Heiko Wilhelm in 2016 and Stew put some effort in whilst it was still a project, but deemed it too difficult at the time. Stew wrote:
'Clipping the chains a few weeks ago closed a chapter that has involved lots of effort juggling family, work and climbing where I hope I got the balance just right.'
9a by Mina Markovič
Mina Markovič has been on form in Osp, Slovenia, where she has redpointed Waterworld (9a). Klemen Bečan bolted the route in 2014 and Markovič has been attempting the route since early summer this year. Eventually, she redpointed the route in 30-degree heat!
Back in July, Markovič also redpointed Halupca 1979 at the same cave in Misja Pec. The three-time Lead World Cup winner has now redpointed three 9as in total.
Rhos Frugtniet ticks Mecca 8b+
Bristol-based GB Team member Rhoslyn Frugtniet has continued her run of post-lockdown form after her recent ascent of Poppy 8b+/c at Anstey's Cove by climbing the Raven Tor classic Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis (8b+) 8b+.
Footage of Brooke Raboutou on Jade (Font 8B+)
Brooke Raboutou has been in incredible form all summer and added to her ticklist with the classic Jade (8B+) in Upper Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park. This was the second female ascent after Alex Puccio climbed the line in 2014. Mellow have released the footage of Raboutou on the climb:
Footage of Laura Rogora on Ali Hullk Sit Extension Total (9b)
On the 25th July 2020, Laura Rogora became the 2nd women in the world to climb the grade of 9b. The route links a 15 move boulder problem into a 9a+ in Ali Baba's Cave in Rodellar, Spain.
Rogora goes into the Olympics next year as one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world, having climbing fourteen routes of 8c+/9a or harder.