User Comments
This isn't Charlie's Tower - it is a route later recorded in 2011 SMC Journal as Broon's Wall, HVS 4c,5b. The original route climbs the hard lower wall, starting 5m left of Boab's Corner to block belay down and right of climber. 8m second pitch is very scruffy - one steep pull over a bulge, but mainly choss. From the base of the slab, scramble up rightwards to base of wide heather crack. 20m HS 4b up crack and steeper crack through 'tower' to belay on good ledge. 40m HS 4b Continue up the prominent V-groove, then short steep crack above. Great climbing on lovely rock - well worth **. Abseil thread & ring in situ 10m below top of pitch - 60m to base of slab; 40m heading west down overhanging Terrier Trauma.
Gary Latter - 25/Nov/18