Wow; interesting pic. I've done this twice before and it's far smaller this year when I've done it, both times in late Jan/ early Feb. Difficult to tell, but it may be far less steep as well as it had about 10-15m of 85-90 degree ice on it on the times when I did it, making P2 feel like a really big, meaty pitch at the grade. What a strange winter this is turning out to be.

Half the first pitch was missing under old avalanche debris so maybe the same was true for the 2nd pitch as well. Some ice was really in condition and some non-existent. Very little snow but cold until recently so it looks as if the those falls with a lot of water were OK.

Interesting comments; thanks. Just out of interest, both times I've done it, p2 has been full on, necessitating as high a belay as possible just as it steepens. Then it's been virtually 60m to the belay, the second half of the pitch thankfully easing gradually after a very steep and sustained first half. I'm guessing that the pitch must just get steeper at the bottom with more ice formation. Both times when I've done it, P1 involved an awkward, strenuous thrutch over a smooth water-worn overhanging boulder in the stream bed.

Both pitches had lost the steep starts, though pitch one still seemed long! I avoided the thrutch over the beautifully polished green boulder by going left onto a very hollow sounding plate of ice with water rushing underneath. Fortunately I was seconding to easier to commit. The second pitch was delicate with beautiful ice formations, a lot of which I kicked off!