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Ken Holmes climbing "The Chasm", Buachaille Etive Mor. May 1967.
© Tony Marr, May 1967
Camera used: Boots 35mm Compact. Scanned colour slide.
Date taken: May 1967
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Morning rain cancelled our planned trip to the Etive Slabs... One of our team of six [Terry Sullivan], knew the mountain well from his time with the areas RAF Mountain Rescue Service, and suggested a "wander" up The Chasm! We climbed in mountain boots and light waterproofs as it was still raining. The climb was enjoyable with much good banter. Our rain soaked clothing was starting to weighing us down, this was not helped by the occasional extra drenching when the team above carefully diverting the stream in our direction! The rain eased as we eventually arrived beneath a slim waterfall cascading down a steep corner...Terry announced this was the Direct Finish and rarely climbed [I could see why]. He said he wanted to climb it and did I want to follow him, I pondered a minute and considered I couldn't get any wetter, so agreed. Mike Hosted also choose to join us. The rest of our team breathed a sigh of relief and opted for the slightly drier finish.
Terry led the pitch with little trouble, avoiding the full force of water by wide bridging until forced to take a deep breath and disappear into the main stream. Water spayed everywhere, his feet disappeared into the stream, several seconds later a triumphant yell sounded his success. Mike and I soon followed...I clearly remember the force of the icy water blasting on my head, down my neck and sleeves...my shirt and breeches filled up like balloons and I felt about three stone heavier...fortunately, it was over quite quickly.
Its a very special climb for me with many good memories.
Tony Marr - 07/Nov/17
What a route eh?? It still lives on in my own memory too, we did it in similarly wet conditions - thought I'd need a snorkel for one of the pitches!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 08/Nov/17
Terry Sullivan, didn't he climb with Sutty?
Sean Kelly - 08/Nov/17
Hi Sean, Yes, I believe he did.
Tony Marr - 09/Nov/17
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added November 07 2017.
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