Ken had already climbed the route some years earlier so knew what to expect... I on the other hand just expected another classic 1930 VS...I was in for a shock!
Ken suggested I lead the main chimney, "good experience" he said. Well I did try, managing to enter the upper section, but found that I couldn't straighten my long legs and rest, my thigh muscles turned to rubber, I was very close to falling and with only one runner I retreated, utterly spent! Ken took over and made it look so ridiculously straight forward, his shorter stature allowing him to rest at will, still a brilliant lead. I followed the "master" thanks to a snug top rope. Ken fortunately led the final corner which I also found desperate!!
After a tea break, I was able to make up for my earlier failure, by leading all of Deer Bield Buttress, which I found considerably easier!

Another cracker! Not only interesting historically but a really well composed photo.

Thanks jon, your comments are always welcome. Tony

Absolutely agree with Jon. A very unusual, historical photo. Was it Deer Bield Crack where the Rock and Ice wore the nails off their boots, grovelling? Thank God I've never had the experience!

HVS now, grade creep again Tony!

Great reading this stuff. Keep them coming!