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Jakey a tad runout
© Will Rupp, Nov 2021
Route: The Tempest (E5 6a)
Climbers: Jake Wilson
Camera used: Sony ILCE-7M2
Date taken: 7th November 2021
VOTING: from 34 votes
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User Comments

Nice shot and looking very relaxed. I am slightly confused by the angle and where the climber is on the Tempest. This is due to the gear visible near his left foot as I thought the only gear was level with the suspect flake then nothing until the break (see other photo on here of the route). Did you find extra gear or is my confusion caused by unintentionally camea perspective trickery?
Graeme Hammond - 08/Nov/21
Hi Graeme,
I think the "extra" gear is where the hand places peg described goes. However it takes a ball nut really nicely... And probably lowers the grade
Will Rupp - 08/Nov/21
Interesting, I got some standard gear on the left hand side of the flake and nothing else (similar to in the other photo but nothing in the RHS where it is mega flexible). I just assumed this was where a blade peg would be placed behind the flake. Will have to take a look at some point as I clearly missed something.
Graeme Hammond - 08/Nov/21
Hmm, maybe it isn't where the peg goes then. But it did look like an obvious place for a ballnut. Maybe it's not stricty "in" but it defiantly helped
Will Rupp - 08/Nov/21
Just checked the definitive guide rather than using the ukc one as was fairly sure my assumption hadn't come from nowhere... "Bold climbing crammed in between easier routes - technically low in the grade. Arrange various pieces of marginal protection behind the flake (a hand-placed blade-peg can be 'dropped' in behind this, but how solid is the flake?) and continue up the centre of the slab." So your gear is different, however good spot and even if you think it might not be in it still is probably better ethics than my headpunt, what did you think it made the grade? For reference I just had 3 equalized sideways brass nuts and the smallest green Z4 cam on the left of the flake which seemed good if it held but rather run out and felt much more seriously than my limited experience at E4s! The right hand side of the flake seemed to flex alot and would surely break if anything was in it such as in the other photo of the route I referred to in the previous comments.
Graeme Hammond - 08/Nov/21
It defiantly feels pretty safe. I'm not sure its 6a, possibly E4 5c? Not sure it's much harder or bolder than the brush off, but I do like slabs. Yeah, no point placing gear in that flake, it hasn't got long left. The brass nuts in the break seem pretty good though..
Will Rupp - 09/Nov/21
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added November 07 2021.
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