UKC

Charles Albert attempting his new Font 9A

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Charles Albert attempting his new Font 9A
24

Charles Albert attempting his new Font 9A

Guiliano Camaroni and Charles Albert (the barefoot climber) in Fontainebleau, France. Giuliano goes on a tear through the forest during a week of excellent conditions. Charles monkeys around some old and new classics in the forest waiting for a chance on his potential 9a project. February 2018



18 Jan, 2019

Way too exposed .

 

18 Jan, 2019

Cracking! Thanks for the video. Does the video show the complete problem, or only the attempt? I thought he was going to go further.

Also... I wonder if his feet are as callused as your average climber's hands? 

18 Jan, 2019

Just an attempt. Where he falls off is about mid way through an 7C or 8A (depending on who you ask) that Charle's new line finishes up. 

18 Jan, 2019

If you can bear to sit through the offensive music, this video shows the top of the boulder from about 12 minutes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG6xzlYepIo&feature=youtu.be&t=724

18 Jan, 2019

Charles has pretty good track record (numerous 8C's, both FAs and repeats, also outside 'Bleau )... but Nalle has a bit more extensive track record... and if I recall correctly, he took over 400 sessions (plus specific training). Now while I admid Charles is no n00b, his track record just isn't the same as Nalle's... and now to climb this grade in just 20 sessions (vs. 400)... well, at least he got some media attention... Let's just hope that some people now repeat this... I know that already quite a few strong lads have tried Burden (Webb, Woods, Timonov)... AFAIK not so much with the high end FAs from Charles (albeit, I do respect his tallent, and AFAIK he usually hasn't given many soft touches). Edited to add, that 'Bleau does have a much longer season for hard climbing... I recall Nalle's words that he had like 10-20 sessions each spring & fall, so basically he had to "start" from scratch each spring/fall... in 'Bleau, the season is more like 50 to 80 per year, in a pretty much one "season" (compared to 20 to 40, split to 2 seasons per year)... so naturally this helps getting it done.

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