UKC

In Isolation - Ep. 11: An Interview with Top Routesetter Tonde Katiyo

Charlie and Nat remember Luce Douady, who tragically died earlier in the week. The team then discuss routesetting and racial diversity with Tonde Katiyo. They cover how he became a setter and the challenges surrounding this relatively new industry. Tonde opens up about diversity within the sport, culture as a whole and what needs to be done going forward.


20 Jun, 2020

"The climbing community seems somewhat in denial that we are actually connected to this wider society and all the problems that are in it - we're not in a bubble."

Yeah I see that attitude a lot, in these forums and elsewhere. That climbing and climbers somehow exist apart from the world and are not subject to the same problems.

Climbers are just people, and some people are dicks.

20 Jun, 2020

That's good to hear.

21 Jun, 2020

Definitely the best episode so far - thanks

23 Jun, 2020

Thank you SO MUCH for interviewing Tonde.

He is very special to us here in Seattle because his ethos brought a breath of fresh air to setting at the Seattle Bouldering Project and across the community. He brought the circuit system, creative use of volumes, and climbing that was about movement and physical exploration and puzzle solving rather than just pulling hard on small holds, though there's nothing wrong with pulling hard.

You can tell from even a few minutes of the interview that he approaches the world through the eyes of an artist, a designer, a philosopher, a climber, and perhaps most importantly, a thoughtful and empathetic person. It's so refreshing compared to the climber-bro macho culture that can be so toxic.

Beyond climbing, Tonde is clearly a deep thinker who has mature and reasoned perspectives on everything from the state of the sport to the state of society and racism and politics. He is truly a treasure.

I really hope he or someone else will run with this concept of a training school for setters. It's overdue.

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