UKC

Odyn’s Crack 9a+, Pitch 5 of Valhalla.

Edu Marin has climbed his long-term project in the cave of Getu, China. His aim was to establish a route from the bottom to the top of the cave, which boasts 304m of roof climbing. The route is 14 pitches long and its hardest pitch is 9a+, making it one of the hardest multipitches in the world.



25 Mar, 2019

Doing a multi-pitch in a roof is never going to be on my agenda, but I'm sort of curious about how you manage an outing like that. I know Edu's dad is a strong climber, but I doubt he followed all the pitches, and you can't exactly jug up the lead rope through a roof. Any ideas as to how they managed that?

25 Mar, 2019

Same as on any overhanging bigwall route would be my guess: Lower out until you are right under the next belay, then jug up...

Might be wrong, though, so I stand to be corrected

CB

25 Mar, 2019

How does the second lower out when the rope runs through all the draws?

25 Mar, 2019

Awesome looking route.

Seconding a bolted roof would be an effort, but ultimately not too hard - fall /jump off, jug up to the next bolt, unclip it, repeat.

Imagine the difficulty of putting the bolts in to start with!

25 Mar, 2019

A mere 300 or so

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