Supper attributes his improvement this year to moving towns and training in a different gym. Definitely interesting to see how they do on rock - comp routes are quite different (less cruxy) and results to a certain extent involve quite a bit of luck too. For instance it looked like Ondra used a different harder looking sequence than the others at this event so perhaps just down to misreading the route rather than being less strong. But all the top lead climbers seem to be at 9a+ or 9b level so I imagine they'd do pretty well. Supper is off to try Biographie next week. I think Ondra is going to back to Flatanger.