UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup: Vail - Full Replay


14 Jun, 2017
9 out of 20, I think you mean. Nevertheless impressive stuff...
14 Jun, 2017
Twenty go through to the semis but out of the top ten spots 9 of them were taken by the Japanese. Pretty damned amazing. They also ended up with 7 of the top 10 places in the men's and 4 of the 6 podium places. How long before an all Japanese podium? Seems like only Jongwon Chon and Alexy Rubstov can beat them with any regularity at the moment. No French team at this comp which was a shame. Also no Ashima which was a surprise and disappointment. Also what happened to other Brits? I thought Matt Cousins and Orrin Coley were down to go to Vail. I imagine Shauna has a very good chance of the overall title again now, especially if Janja drops out to focus on lead.
14 Jun, 2017
I guess you are right and that is what was being meant. Doesn't say that, mind. :) Kaito Watanabe, let the side down. 1000 extra burpees in training for him this week. :)
14 Jun, 2017
Well Jens on 8a* was saying Janja is not doing Mumbai, but doing the European lead championship the following weekend instead. In which case Shauna would only need one 9th place or better to be unreachable. (Unless Miho or Akiyo does very well in both remaining events and Shauna gets null points. Improbable even given current Japanese team form) I find it hard to see why Janja would bother with a mere European championship when she still has a realistic shot at the bouldering world cup though, except maybe as a warm up for the lead world cup. Right now she's not on the start list for either event, so maybe keeping her options open. * admittedly never a reliable source of information about, well, basically anything really
15 Jun, 2017
Shauna didn't do so well at Mumbai last year. I think she was struggling with the heat and conditions as I remember. But she can drop her worst result anyway - so I think, barring injury, she'll probably get the title again. I agree about Janja, but from interviews her focus has always been lead. Maybe the bouldering was just a bit of fun for her before the lead season begins and now she wants to build up her endurance before the start.
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