Last September, Margo Hayes repeated Chris Sharma's iconic route Biographie (9a+), at Ceuse. The route was Margo's second of the grade after repeating La Rambla earlier in the year.
I really liked this video for its simplicity of showing the movements required to complete the climb. There were no distractions. No soft slow sequences of the walk in with low level shots of feet, bubbling streams, sunbursts, chalk dust in the sun and all that baggage that seems to have become a requirement of the climbing video. The simple soundtrack of encouragement was a more pleasant accompaniment than some of the music that seems to be have become essential in many films. Notably I didn't detect any product placement! Judging by the presence of a photographer in the footage we can expect a fully rounded version of this accomplishment but it would take a really imaginative approach to better what I have just seen as a record of this landmark climb by a climber at the top of their game.
What a great video, no slow motion, no commentary. A lot of modern videos skip through "boring" bits such as resting, clipping, or easy ground and this in my opinion detracts a lot. Enjoyed this, thanks for posting.
Reading the blurb at the bottom of the video suggests, that this video was taken by some random dude who just happened to be passing by and so pulled out his camera. I'm sure the "official" video will have all the features you dislike. :) Yeah, I liked this "raw" version too. I'd have left in the couple of minutes shaking out that got chopped. I think it's important to see the pacing of the climb. I think sometimes more heavily edited video gives the impression that guys n gals blast up these things in two minutes flat. I thing it's good to see how much recovery time the climbers allow themselves between the cruxy sections.
Yes something that struck me was the way the climb was broken down into sections of several moves with rests - that doesn't always come over in editted form.
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