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UKC FitClub Week 895

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 Tom Green 12 May 2024

Fit club 895

Hey folks. 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_894-77061...

Randy: Gutted to hear that it's looking like a bit of a prolonged lay off. I hope the finger pick-ups etc are working ok and that they are giving you enough structure to stay sane. My go-to therapy when I'm out of action is buying new guidebooks to obsess over all of the routes I'm going to do when I'm back in the game!

Alan Little: Impressive dedication to keeping the balance of training specific to all of your various goals. Another week of covering all bases, including training the most important skill of all... the art of bailing BEFORE the epic begins! Don't worry about the weight -I reckon you'll struggle to keep it on that Scottish trip, so you need to go in with some extra! Alternatively, plan training routes that don't pass delicious pate vending machines!

biscuit: So what's the new schedule now the main 3x gym block is over? Are you going to keep those sessions in the schedule at a lower frequency? Looking forward to hearing about this weeks return to Kilnsey armed with new beta. And where did you get to for the mini-trip?

Ian Parnell: That's annoying that the achilles is going to require backing off the running. Glad you've got other epic goals to substitute in -what's the plan for the Stanage mega-day? I feel you're pain re: crowded crags... I get big time Meldrew vibes if there is more than one other team at 'my' crag, so I think I'd have run amok at Moat Buttress!

Ross Barker: Again, nice work with the wrist prehab -good habit formation there. Mud running sounds awful! So let me know if you do it -I'll come along and laugh! Kudos for another 7B -you must be building up a decent collection of them now. Also kudos for getting to venues outside of the normal circuit. 

Tigh: Good discipline on the deload part of the week -it can be hard to drop volume when you're going well. Congrats on your Sunday effort. That's a lovely round and some serious elevation there. I feel your pain regarding the B3s in hot weather, but I suspect you'll be glad you've done it when you hit the alps... it's much more useful than doing the same mileage in trainers/approach shoes.

mattrm: The skating stuff sounds totally crazy -it's a window to a different world for me! Glad the head is ok -helmets rule! Sounds like a good leg/cardio week despite the drop back in running volume. The hill walking with a heavy rucksack will definitely make up the shortfall in running -both for cardio and leg conditioning. 

Somerset Swede Basher: Sounds like you had a good time in the lakes despite the less than perfect weather. Good pre-trip bouldering and training sessions too. Sunday sounds like a pretty intense leg day! I'd be worried about your knees, but it seems they held up ok from this week's showing?!

Tom Green: Tweaky hip from squatting and lunging with boxes needs looking after. Be smart about running choices this week.

Tyler: Top job on Roadside Arete. Good problem and a nice benchmark of progress -maybe that time spent on the annex board is paying off?! Great to see you hitting some strong form on the trad. Looks like you're going to be peaking just in time for your summer Parois de Legendes tour!

Steve Claw: Not a bad week for someone on the injury list! There are people here more qualified to advise than me, but my understanding is that keeping a low intensity of 'insult' to the finger is part of the recovery process. I guess the thing with trad is when fully 'engaged' it can be hard to stick to low intensity, so sticking well within your grade will hopefully reduce the 'accidental' hard pulls.

AJM: Good work with the generic exercises! Sorry to hear about your dad -you should point him towards Ian's UKC Achilles Club. Fairlop boulders look entertaining. What's the texture like? Does concrete get polished?

Derek Furze: The healing power of pull-ups -you should market that! Glad you had a good time at World's End -such a charming crag. I've loads of stuff to do there, so let me know if you fancy a return visit. I think your reflections are correct -it's still early season (due to the awful spring weather!) so definitely correct to cut yourself a bit of slack with things like Finer Feelings. A few more trads sessions and you'll be flying.

Ally Smith: Covid is the gift that keeps on giving! Sorry the whole tribe have succumbed. I hope you're on the mend but, like The Sheep last week, make sure you ease back gently so that you maximise the recovery.

 Ian Parnell 12 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom for your stating. Not sure exactly what arbitrary rules I'll set for the Stanage day although they'll include not falling off! It'll basically be see how many routes I can do. 

STG (this month) – 1. Finally get up the hardest E2 I’ve ever tried.

MTG (next 2 months)– 1. Give me strength – shoulders and core. 2. Big day out at Stanage. 3. Rheinstor Lower Traverse??

LTG (next 6 months) – 1. Give me strength – fingers, steep stuff and slopers. 2. Trip to Sanctuary Wall. 3. Redpoint a 7b+.

Mon – Quick hour bouldering at Hollin Hill – still a bit damp in places. Just had time for Holds Come and Go (f6C), theoretically my first 6C but felt more like 6B. Good training traverse and can be linked into various finishes. It will be a good one to get ‘Sanctuary Wall’ fit on.

Tues – Brief visit to Burbage South looking at 3 boulder projects. Didn’t do much actual climbing as one problem was still wet and disappointingly thrutchy, one disappointingly dabby but with interesting moves, and one too hard for me in summer temps but again looked good. Will probably return to try the dabby one.

Pull up pyramid to 2 sets of 5, total of 30 pullups.

Wed – Nothing

Thursday – Nothing. Had planned to go to Moat Buttress, but partner had to cancel at last moment.

Fri – Nothing. Had planned to go to Froggatt, but partner delayed in bank holiday traffic.

Sat – Made up for two missed evenings with a big hot grit day picking off 3 star routes at Stanage, starting at the Popular End and finishing at High Neb. Did 6 routes including The Link (E1 5b) and Tower Face Direct (E2 5b), but couldn’t finish with a flourish on Quietus (E2 5c) despite 3 attempts.

Sunday – Returned for another 3 goes on Quietus. Couldn’t find my jamming gloves so made mincemeat of my mitts. Eventually managed to get my toes on top (Yes I know that sounds weird but its my sequence and I’m sticking with it) but melted off in combination of physical exhaustion and heat stress. I did find my gloves up by the belay and photographed a cuckoo.

Reflection - Not much training but plenty of contrasting climbing. Going to need a few days for the flesh wounds to heal though.

   

Post edited at 22:22
 Tigh 12 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the stats Tom. 

Been a second deload week due to illness. Tried to do some training but with a focus on getting better too. Still not better but hoping to do a full weeks training this week. 

M - Rest 

T - Rest 

W - 11km Easy run

T - Hill Repeats - 14x60Secs. 2km warm up and cool down. Total 9.5km

F - Light strength session

Sa - 12km Easy Hike 

Su - Rest 

Have a good week everyone 

 Tyler 12 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

> Top job on Roadside Arete. Good problem and a nice benchmark of progress -maybe that time spent on the annex board is paying off?! Great to see you hitting some strong form on the trad.

You're very kind but I'm not sure there has been any progress really, all feels a little bleak at the moment

M: Craig Rhiw Goch was the first place I got to experience roped climbing when our English teacher took us. Afterwards we messed around on/off the (now sadly removed) fisherman’s ladders before jumping off a nearby bridge. Despite having a sort of affinity with the place I’d never returned because the logical route to do (The Riparian (E2 5c)) is described as serious in the guide. Martin went first and confirmed it was ok so I set off with some of his gear still in low down (to save time) and some gear beta for higher up (to save my blushes). Great route, I then secondedMur Dena (E2 5c) which seemed quite a lot harder.

T & W: Rest, which after three days on I felt I deserved.

T: Saw consultant about my X-rays and MRI who confirmed arthritis in all my fingers and pointed out some in my elbow which I didn’t know about. Nothing much to be done though so back to Cromlech boulders after work! Absolutely dreadful, moves I found easy the last couple of visits I could not touch not sure what had happened but very disappointing.

F: Broadsword (E2 5c) is another classic E2 that has been in the back of my mind for decades (I’d been up to do it once before) the first pitch is supposedly 5b but after a fair bit of dogging I handed the lead over to Martin who only just made it with my gear in place so possibly physical E3 for this pitch alone (probs less pumpy if it was a bit less greasy). The next pitch is the crux and very bold, which I didn’t even attempt to lead before clawing my way up the last pitch on lead.

S: Felt absolutely wiped out after yesterday. Walked up Conwy Mountain with Fi and struggled with even that.

S: With thunderstorms forecast for the afternoon we went to Pen Trwyn, I warmed up on Vagal Inhibition (E2 5b) which I was pleased with and put Friday in some perspective. However, I then backed off Kanly as it looked a virtual solo so did Bauxed (HVS 5a) instead which was brilliant but I'm disappointed to see Rockfax have downgraded.

Reflections: Still struggling to come to terms with how shite I am. After a relatively active winter indoors I assumed I’d be good for E3 by now but I’m still finding easier routes hard/intimidating; I guess all I can do is keep turning up.

 Steve Claw 12 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Thank you Tom.

I have been on the Trad this week, weather has been lovely, possibly too hot at times, and I have been guilty of pulling a bit too hard on the finger.

M - New 6a sport route

T - M1 (E1 5b) Very enjoyable

W - TR on Them (E3 6a)

T - Amanita Muscarina (E4 6a) Led all pitches.  Full sun by the top, and it felt a bit harder than last time

F - Seconded Smog of Things (E6 6b), Then Led Take Five (E2 5b)Quip U for Leisure (E3 5c) and Unknown Gully (HVS 5a)

S + S Nothing

 AlanLittle 13 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

STG: Rough Bounds Scottish backpacking trip starts this weekend
STG: Thalkirchen 5.9 "easy" crack
MTG. DAV Lofoten meet in July
MTG: Im Extremen Fels ticks in August
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter '25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M:  Bike two hours: office & back via a diversion into town to pick up some permethrin.
    While I was in the office, a brief dive into specifity in the form of a quick lap on the stairs: 40 flights, ~140 metres.

T:    Rest day. Half an hour stretching

W:  Crimp block pick-ups, pullups, shoulders

T:    Public Holiday: I meant this to be my last long hill day before tapering for Scotland. From the nearest summit webcam it looked that the snow below about 2000 was all but gone, and on that basis I planned a long traverse in the Estergebirge. Ha! THe snow is still there, lurking soggily in the corries where the cams can't see it. I had to cut my planned itinerary drastically short - another day with a lot of effort expended for relatively little distance covered. Although I suppose it's the effort that counts more from a training perspective. 

F:    "Rest" day? Sunshine after a spell of cool & damp weather = worst hayfever day of the year so far. Didn't make it to my planned kilterboard session. 

S:    Thalkirchen kilterboard postponed from yesterday. Another unambitious but enjoyable ticking-over session. Took multiple attempts to even pull on to the start of my 25° crimps project, oh dear - I blame the humidity. And interesting results on one of my 45° ventures. Tried it at lower angles and did it smoothly, statically & with ease up to 40° - but then at 45° there's a move where I simply can't keep my feet on, or control the swing when they go. Further detailed experimentation determined the cutoff (!) point to be 42°. Something to work on.

S:    Final pre-Scotland hillwalking day, Herzogstand. Definitely no snow here - south facing slope with a webcam right at the top. Short hike-up-lift-down time trial. This is my standard benchmark course, and I beat my previous pb by a pretty convincing 3½ minutes. Yay. Especially yay because just a couple of months ago I was still feeling the lingering after effects of covid + other mystery bronchial infection, and worried about whether I was going to be able to get back to full fitness in time for Scotland. Or ever.

Scotland here I come. Will be there from next weekend, sans laptop obviously. Full trip report in three weeks when I get back
 

Post edited at 07:13
 Ross Barker 13 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Good morning everyone. British summer time is now officially over. Good aurora though, if you were lucky enough to catch it!

> Ross Barker: Again, nice work with the wrist prehab -good habit formation there. Mud running sounds awful! So let me know if you do it -I'll come along and laugh!

Cheers. It's not a super hardcore event as it's for charity, but it looks fun and even ends with a big slide!

> Kudos for another 7B -you must be building up a decent collection of them now. Also kudos for getting to venues outside of the normal circuit. 

Again, thanks. I think I accidentally choose it well, a big dyno from massive footholds to skip the last move, and a two-finger pocket for the RH that avoids the somewhat niggly ring finger. Big fan of going to new places, so that'll keep happening I'm sure! 

An okay week from from me. Decent rehab, sort of okay evening raid to NW on Thursday, a panicky Saturday deciding what I'm going to do with the last dry weather, and then a lovely Sunday learning how to climb on terrain that isn't steep.

Last Week:

Avg weight 79.9kg

M - Bank holiday, see last week.

T - Wrist pronation stretches. Pronated bicep curls, 6x5.

W - Rushed lower body mobility work.

T - Evening raid to Jerry's Roof (f7C)... and the parking was full! What a crock of shite. Plan B was Gwynant Roadbloc. Very sweaty, right ring was very tweaky warming up but eventually settled. Felt like the rock was rough but still somehow very little friction? Bizarre, but managed to scrape up a few bits. Quick dunk in the lake before driving home.

F - Wrist pronation stretches. Pronated bicep curls, 6x5. Some 3-5kg lifts with the mono tool. Hamstring + groin mobility.

S - Rest 

S - Harmer's Wood with Tom. Bit of an oven but decent shade! A great time, lots of getting spanked on "easy" stuff, but managed some nice problems. My toes are not conditioned to standing all my weight on little edges for extended periods of time, they were killing by the end! Stronger legs would probably help with pistol squats when the handholds are too poor to crank!

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing.

F - Rest.

S, S - More climbing!

Goals:

Rehab left middle finger.

Rehab right ring finger.

Improve wrist mobility.

Improve lower body mobility.

Louisville Lip.

Rigpa.

OP Tom Green 13 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Hi FC.

Week 19:

Yet another poor week for training. Still low psyche for running, compounded this week by picking up a sore hip and strained calf. Need to try and find some discipline from somewhere, and if this isn't happening then maybe change my goals!

M: Rest.

T: Long work day.

W: Rest.

T: Road/trail run. 10.3km, 168m vert, 6:49/km.

F: Climbing. An enjoyable evening hit at Llanymynech. Coaxed SSB to almost getting Back-Bee Tubin (8a) in a session -sooo close! Had a go on it myself to see what 8a feels like (spoilers: very very hard!) as well as collecting some easy mileage on other routes.

S: Climbing. A fab Ogwen link-up with SSB. Great climbing in the shade, hard work toiling between climbs in the sun. My R hip was pretty painful on anything approaching a high step -a product of pistol squatting heavy boxes in to a high van last week. Hopefully won't persist too long. 

S: Climbing. A nice, if oppressively hot, sesh at Harmers Wood. Much too hot to consider trying the top of Yates' Layaway (it was in full sun), but reminded myself of the lower moves and checked and brushed the top out, so hopefully all set for a decent session soon. A good showing by Ross, cracking through some of the local classics!

Week 20:

M: Core & Prehab.

T: Climbing.

W: Core & Prehab.

T: Run.

F: Climbing or Strength sesh depending on weather!

S: Run.

S: Climbing.

STG (end of May):

Average 35km/wk running.

2 off E2 list.

1 x VS Challenge Day.

2 x Sport Onsighting Marathon.

A Spade (TICK)

Slobberlob (TICK)

MTG (end of July):

Average 45km/wk running.

1 x Mountain Ultra (Welsh 3000s; Tea Round; Corris Round).

3 off E2 list.

Maybe sneak in an E3.

2 x VS Challenge Day.

2 x Sport Onsighting Marathon.

Yates' Layaway.

Eliminator.

 Ally Smith 13 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Week 19

M – Ill; grateful for the bank-holiday

T – Snap; off work

W – Ditto

T – Elderly cat admitted to vet with an ischaemic fore-limb adding to the stress of covid.

F – Snot drying up? Still feeling pretty knackered but did a day of work. No exercise.

S – Gentle family day out at Tatton park. Cat showing signs of improvement.

S – Upped the volume of physical activity, with gardening, lawn moving and some FB'ing. Warm-up progressive hangs, then a quick play on the micros. 5 pull-ups on 6mm edges was the highlight.

In reply to Tom Green:

Hi Tom,

Thanks, and lovely to catch up at the weekend too.

Tues. Tideswell dale again.  Did Monster Munch (f7A) and then Space force (f7B).  I think this one is overgraded and probably 7A+.  I don't think its had loads of ascents so the grade probably just needs to settle.

Wed. 10km run feeling a bit snotty and bleugh.

Thurs. Slightly less snotty and bleugh.

Fri.  Llanymanech hit with Tom.  2 paracetamol and a can of coke seemed to do the trick and nearly got the bouldery 8a in the cul de sac.  If I'd have worked out the beta a bit faster then it might have gone in a session but looking positive for next session.

Sat. Ogwen bimble with Tom. 14km walking with 1500m+ ascent taking in Direct Route (VS 4c) and Grey Slab (VS 4b).  Highlights include getting a parking space at 8am, almost keeping pace with the ultra runners heading up towards Glyder Fach even with our big bags and Tom getting the run out pitch rather than me at the top of Grey Slab.  Despite a complete lack of planning we managed to be just in time to meet Mrs. Swede for dinner and cocktails out in Shrewsbury later on too.  Winner of a day!

Sun. Mostly rest.  Had to get up early to pick the kids up from their sleepover back in Sheffield and was a bit sore of head after yesterday evening. Early night.

 biscuit 13 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. The gym frequency continues, but less volume in each session while we build up to a mini peak in June when we've got a few days off to go where ever the weather is best.

So this week was 2 gym sessions (work/life got too busy to squeeze 3 in) 2 trips to Kilnsey and 3 x 30 min jogs.

Kilnsey was a mixed bag. I spent a very frustrating session on Tuesday being unable to make any real progress. Just one move that is hugely spanned out and I can't move from it.

Thursday night I decided I'd take a look at the hold I discounted on my very first time up it. Went up it Friday morning and realised I'd wasted 2 sessions with totally stupid beta.

Next go did the start (first time I'd actually tried it in anger) but had a foot slip and greased off a crimp. It was very warm and muggy. Went again and felt great but for some reason reverted to my old beta and got spanned out and fell off. Waited for 2 hours for a good rest and better connies. As soon as I set off the wind died, the cloud moved and it got greasy again. Failed again.

So it'll have to wait until next time. When connies are not good I need to bin projects and spend the time looking at potential future projects, not wasting time frustrating myself for no good reason.

This week we're off to South Wales (hopefully) to look at Dinas Rock. We've got 2 days there and I'd very much like to get a decent tick. Got a few options but going to look at what takes my fancy when we get there.

 AJM 13 May 2024
In reply to biscuit:

> This week we're off to South Wales (hopefully) to look at Dinas Rock. We've got 2 days there and I'd very much like to get a decent tick. Got a few options but going to look at what takes my fancy when we get there.

I tried Berlin (7a+) many years ago with Ally - I think he did Berlin Extension (7b)? I remember it being good; I didn't do it in the time we had (a short afternoon) but I could plausibly have done, if you see what I mean. It's one I've been hoping to get back to for several years, I remember it being good (and it looks like there are a pile of other good mid-7s on that wall)

 Ally Smith 13 May 2024
In reply to AJM:

Correct recollection. A bouldery start on Berlin, but not sure that the extension added much as there's good recovery in the less steep central section?

I've been meaning to get back and finish off H1N1 (8a) at some point

 AJM 13 May 2024
In reply to Ally Smith:

I don't think I tried the extra moves on the extension, but my memory was that it wasn't that many different moves and that like you say the middle/upper section wasn't terribly steep (my recollection of the upper section was that it was trad-esque - techy moves with small feet - rather than physical). There's probably a 2-for-1 synergy going on between the two routes.

We did long weekends to South Wales a few times in the hope of getting back there, but things have never quite lined up. One day.....

 Derek Furze 13 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Another odd week.  I wish I could get more of a groove going at the moment.  Thanks for supportive analysis and yes, I will happily get on stuff at World End or any others in the area.

Mon - work.

Tues - work, childminding and repeater block lifts to 22.8 kg.  30 pull ups in sixes.  Same push ups.  Five sets of core and stretching.  Ran short of time.

Wed - work all day in Stoke.

Thurs - twelve routes at a very busy Attermire up to 6c.

Fri - work (might be my last day).

Sat - Mansfield for a rave.  Actually quite aerobic.  Brilliant night with top DJs

Sun - recovery

I'm late reporting as went out today.  Flashed a 6c eighth route in and fell off the finishing jugs of a 6c+ ninth route in.  Rain back with us now.

 mattrm 14 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the stats Tom!

Weight - 14st 5lbs

STG - 10km fell loop in 1h 45m

MTG - 30 mile ultra (July 24)

LTG? keep on trucking?  stay fit? ummm

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere / kickflip

M - Rest

T - 14.5km, 600m asc, Deri and Pen-y-Fal

W - 12km, 600m asc, club run up Pen-y-Fal

T - Rest

F - Rest

S - 1h bouldering

S - 5k hillwalk

Weekly kms - 26.5k

Diet status - Ok

Nice solid running week with real quality kms.  The Tues run I shaved 20 mins of my previous PB, from 2h 30 to 2h 10.  Then went out with the club on Wednesday as well and kept up pretty well with everyone.  I'm never going to be out front, but wasn't that far behind most of the time and was mid-pack at a few points.  Also we took a lovely route around the base of the hill through all the bluebells.  Full on bluebell season up here at the moment, it's lovely.  For once the rest was actually needed, my legs felt a bit battered.  However, no knee issues which was great.  Bit of bouldering at the weekend and a gentle family hillwalk up Skirrid on Sunday.

Similar plans for next week in terms of routes and distance.  Week after that I'm pacing a mate on the Wild Horse 200 miler.  So I'll be sensible in terms of things that can wreck me as I really want to be un-injured for that, which will be great prep for the July ultra.  After the July ultra, I'm going to hit the climbing and skating a bit more, as I won't be so worried about wrecking myself and ruining the running training.

 mattrm 14 May 2024
In reply to biscuit:

> This week we're off to South Wales (hopefully) to look at Dinas Rock. We've got 2 days there and I'd very much like to get a decent tick. Got a few options but going to look at what takes my fancy when we get there.

As Ally and AJM note, Berlin (7a+) is good with a very bouldery start.  I tried it once when I was up there belaying Tom on his E9 project up there (see Derek, I can name drop to!).  Lovely route, well worth a try.  It's a great crag.

If you need any other South Wales crag recommendations, feel free to ask.  Or if you're in Abergavenny at all, drop me a message and we can meet up.

 Derek Furze 14 May 2024
In reply to mattrm:

Excellent and great to see the SW recommendations!  I've only been to Llangattock (sp?) on a dreary wet day and left very unimpressed.  We must have gone with something in mind, but off-puttingly wet IIRC.

That is a stunning time reduction on the run btw.

In reply to mattrm:

2.30 to 2.10 is a big jump. What do you think made the difference?

 Derek Furze 14 May 2024
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Running faster? 😂. Just a guess...

In reply to Derek Furze:

It's a good job we don't do dislike on fitclub Mr. Furze! 😉

 Derek Furze 14 May 2024
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Apologies Swede.  My terrible sense of humour was finely cultivated in boarding school.  Fifty years later I still can't shake it off!

 mattrm 14 May 2024
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

To be fair, Derek has it right, I did just run faster...  Thankfully I don't have likes or dislikes turned on so I can't see.

Slightly more seriously, I'm still at that really slow phase of running where I can make massive gains fairly easily.  Also I've not done this route for about 6 weeks, if not longer.  In the mean time I've done a load of faster runs and a load of longer runs.  Also it's not a route I've actually done that much but I know it well enough now that I didn't have to think about where I was going.  Nicer weather helps as well I think.  Definitely slower when it's cold and wet.

Post edited at 17:39
 AJM 14 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

> AJM: Good work with the generic exercises! Sorry to hear about your dad -you should point him towards Ian's UKC Achilles Club. Fairlop boulders look entertaining. What's the texture like? Does concrete get polished?

Yes, I can confirm it does get polished.

I got out climbing twice this week.

- on Wednesday I ended up at Avon. Did a ~2 pitch sport route in the amphitheatre (I'm ignoring the link pitch between the two), a very obscure sport route on the rather overgrown red wall above, and toproped Herbsman Shotgun (E3 5c) at the end since the rope was down it from our descent. It's basically a clip up on in-situ gear, a bit run out and not always quite where you want it. Felt quite thin. First time out in the evening for ages. About 90 mins of walking as well (the gorge is walkable from the office which is very convenient).

- on Saturday we went to lulworth. Family day and showing a friend around, plus there were no other climbers there and some of the tops seemed to be wet, but the standard warmup traverses (The Maypole (HVS 5b) and The Laws Traverse (E1 6a)) were in great nick and it was good to be out above the sea again.

I've completely forgotten what else I did! There was definitely something. I'll try to keep a better record this week.

 Randy 17 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Sorry for the late update, but it was a busy week at work and as you can all imagine training is not my focus at the moment.

Nevertheless, managed to do a little to stay in shape. Did some assisted one-arm-lockoffs at angles from 170° till 90° and a couple of easy repeater block lifts.

The plan for the next weeks to increase volume and intensity a little bit and start to build up for autumn season where i hopefully have more luck.

 planetmarshall 20 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

Actually have some stuff to report at last...

Injury update
-----------------

I am probably "mechanically sound" at this point, so from here on it's just waiting for nerve damage to sort itself out.

Last week
--------------

Mostly gym work, but decided to bite the bullet and test my recovery with some light running and climbing.

Monday

Gym. Basic 5x5 protocol and still intentionally skipping leg day...
Pullups (bodyweight only), Benchpress, Bilateral dumbell shoulder press, Knees to chest.

Wednesday

Gym, as above

Friday

Trail run, ~6.5km around Burbage. Spectacularly slow and awkward, but some actual running was done
Gym, as above

Saturday

Some easy routes at Stanage Plantation. Backed off Paradise Arête (VS 4c) rather than risk a fall-offable move, but not too bothered about that.

STG
------

Another week of mostly gym work. Increase weight and maybe add some weight to the pullup sets. Also can probably handle a bit more core.

MTG
-------

Not really looking further ahead than injury rehab at this point. Currently my activities are restricted by how long I can handle driving for, which at the moment is about 30-45 mins.

Post edited at 11:59
OP Tom Green 20 May 2024
In reply to planetmarshall:

Glad you’re getting back on track. 
 

What about Week 896?!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_896-77111...
 

;-p

 planetmarshall 20 May 2024
In reply to Tom Green:

> What about Week 896?!

...balls.


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