Although this article is confined to the Craig Bwlch y Moch and Pant Ifan areas there are many more venues to explore in the beautiful Nant Gwynant valley.

The climbing all started in the 1900’s at Tremadog but generally it was neglected in favour of the mountain crags. There was a surprising amount done between the 1940’s and 1950’s. Climbers back then used to write down their new routes on the back of fag packets. Rumour has it you could identify the group by the brand of cigarettes. In the 1960’s Tony Moulam created the classic Shadrach (VS) claiming it was the best route at Tremadog. A pretty bold statement from someone who hadn’t actually climbed many of the other routes. Scratch (VS), Christmas Curry (Severe) and Merlin (VS) all became his creations.

As far as the rock is concerned it’s fair to say that Tremadog’s dolerite is quite unlike the columnar variety encountered at Fairhead and Neist. Its compact nature makes it more reminiscent of granite, though the impregnated soil and greenery mean that on a bigger scale it’s more unstable than the other types of dolerite. Eric Jones knew someone who witnessed a monster boulder fly past him on the way to work. Unsurprisingly the meteorite like block originated from the Avalanche Buttress on Craig Pant Ifan.

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In the 1970s a climber was soloing when a lump of Bwlch y Moch went downward bound. He was simply forced to climb faster! In 1978 a rock fall demolished a woman’s house. Fortunately, she was saved from being crushed by hiding behind her refrigerator. This incident led to the crag being banned until people realised there were far bigger forces at work than the weight of a 15 stone climber.

In the 1960’s that pegs were all the rage, with some routes boasting as many as sixteen; Henry Barber’s Pincushion (E2 6a) being a good example. It was claimed that Joe Brown’s Barbarian (E1 5b) became easier after the pegs were removed as initially the holes made good finger pockets. Brown didn’t initially think it was that good a place, though his route Vector (E2 5c) adopted classic status from day one, with climbers lobbing off the top crack after they failed to recover from the demanding climbing encountered on the lower Ochre slab.

Even the fire brigade got called out at one point to rescue some stranded climbers. In the summer of ‘69 Eric Jones soloed Grasper and The Fang with Alan Rouse. It turned out Rouse didn’t like ropes.

Of all the routes at Tremadog, Strawberries was the one that attracted the most controversy. For many weekends Ron Fawcett and Jon Readhead would battle it out for the first ascent often taking huge whippers from the top crack. This certainly provided some entertainment for passing walkers. Despite advancements in standards, it took until 1987 for the route to see a flash style ascent by visiting Stefan Glowacz. Even in the present day it still has a reputation as one of the hardest E7’s to onsight and continues to deter the UK’s most talented climbers.

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Craig Pant Ifan

The left-hand of the two areas is easily recognised as you drive past Eric’s café. A vast assortment of exposed slabby arêtes, overlapping roofs and groove lines rise above the tree line. Many of the routes here require good footwork and the ability to find awkward gear placements. A bold approach will often pay dividends.

Poor Man’s Peuterey Severe 4a

One of the many routes on Peuterey buttress that manages to avoid climbing through the fine sculptured over-laps by weaving up the easier slabby ground. A classic route with exposure, unlikely ground and incredible positions that meanders to the side of all hard ground. Arguably the best of its grade at Tremadog.

Alcatraz VS 4c

An often-neglected gem on the secluded Strangeways buttress that unusually requires an abseil approach. Superb and sustained crack climbing makes this Martin Boysen line well worth hunting out.

Scratch Arête HVS 4c, 5a

This slabby arête on the right of Peuterey Buttress maybe easy for the grade, but it has a sting in the tail as you pull through the over-hang. The positions on the top slab are sensational and photogenic. A classic from the sixties by Baz Ingle.

Falcon E1 5b

Since the demise of any decent pegs, this one has a bit of a reputation. Amazing disjointed crack climbing with a pretty serious feel since some of the protection is behind slightly dubious loose blocks. A bit of a sandbag

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How to get there

Theoretically, it is possible to get a train to Bangor then a bus to Tremadog via Caernarfon, thus avoiding the need for a car. In reality this is tedious, and you would be better with a car as it would give you access to the other crags in the valley.

When to go

Tremadog enjoys far more sun and less rain than the rest of Snowdonia and therefore is often dry in the winter months, so in theory you could climb here all year round. Due to its southerly aspect it can literally be too hot to climb on in the middle of summer, but this doesn’t seem to stop people.

Where to stay

You couldn’t have it more sorted. Eric’s café provides camping and a bunkhouse opposite the crag. The BMC own the parking opposite Bwlch y Moch so no access problems here, although you must not sleep in your vehicle. Within walking distance is the village of Tremadog, which has a fine pub and a local shop.