Occupying a menacing position high above the Chew Valley’s reservoir, is a gritstone monster of truly biblical proportions. By far the grandest crag in the Chew Valley, yet receiving rather less attention that it perhaps deserves. Its forbidding North East facing walls are home to some of the finest challenges on grit. With words like Death, Fear, Coffin, Sectioned, Wrist Cutter, MaD and Danger used to name the routes, one would be forgiven for thinking that this place is only suited to a select group of ultra-talented individuals. This may be the case for those seeking those particular named routes, but there are a wealth of safer and protectable lines in the sub-extreme category, that offer memorable challenges in one of the most peaceful and un-spoilt spots in the UK.

The rock everywhere is impregnated with an abundance of razor sharp pebbles. Often utilizing a combination of them may be the only way to make precarious upward progress, with disastrous consequences should one of them snap. In a crack however, they can bite into your flesh so savagely that days later you may still feel the temporary numbness on your battered wrists and hands.

Photo © Rob Greenwood

History

By 1910 the first routes had been climbed, but for one reason or another it wasn’t until 1948 that any significant developments had begun. Rumours of Joe Brown and Don Whillans both climbing Blue Lights Crack HVS 5b together in this year are slightly dubious, given the fact that the pair didn’t cross paths until 1951. With or without Don, Joe went on to climb The Trident HVS 5b and Freddie’s Finale HVS 5b, which in this present day still repel many accomplished climbers operating in the extremes!

By the 1960’s, desert climber extraordinaire and local legend Tony Howard had discovered the delights of Wimberry and contributed in a significant way. in 1961, Malcolm Baxter and Jim Heys took the crag into the extremes by climbing Wall and Bulge E2 5b. They had little gear and none that would fit, meaning Malcolm effectively soloed the route. Bancroft and Allen dominated the seventies with their antics and created the very fine finger crack of Pinball Wizard E1 5c, which is a damn sight less gnarly than most of the lower grade challenges. Bancroft was rather bemused by Allen’s use of a wire brush on the well-protected peg-crack of Blasphemy E2 5c. However tempting this might seem, it’s generally considered by the modern day climber that frequent ascents are a better way of keeping routes free from the Mooreland pelt. Believe it or not, the greenery wasn’t so much of an issue back in the days of heavy coal use, since the acidic sulphur containing smoke helped keep the lichen under control. One of the only benefits of air pollution it has to be said.

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In 1981 Jonny Woodward balanced up the incredibly bold and photogenic arête of Consolation Prize E5 6a, which was an amazing feat for its time. I remember vividly an early morning ascent where I had the luxury of photographing guidebook editor Martin Kocsis, as he literally disappeared into a blanket of mist. One of the most memorable and worrying moments of my photographic career, as Niall Grimes once said “There is only victory on this route and no prize for second place.” It seems that worrying moments have featured quite heavily where photographers and belayers have visited Wimberry over the years.

Take for example Dave Pegg’s ascent of MaDMAn E8 6b back in 1994. There was no use of pads and with just Simon Jones and his wife to spot, it’s likely that a fall would have ended very badly. Dave Simmonite’s brilliant photo clearly shows a face displaying both commitment and terror. Dave even got on a rope himself and said that the mantel onto the sloping ledge would have been more than stressful. As Niall stated in the guide, it was as close to a lethal dose of MDMA as one could get.

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Photo © David Simmonite

Meanwhile, it was Nathan’s turn to repeat Kevin Thaw’s terrifying Order Of The Phoenix E8 6c; an overhanging and totally unprotected arête, relying on precise smearing and the crimping of fragile pebbles. Thankfully this one went down without mishaps. Finally Pete was on the sharp end for what was perhaps the greatest last problem to go down at Wimberry. The outrageously overhanging prow that terminates up the arête left of Appointment With Fear E7 6b had been admired and tried by Miles Gibson previously in 2011. Miles said that it made Parthian Shot look like a boring slab and was probably the best route on grit stone he had seen. Pete chose to clip the 43-year-old bolts on lead with a specially adapted piece of bamboo, which was a spectacle for the on-lookers, as was his fall just 3 moves from the top. Thankfully the ancient bolts held and Pete came to within three metres of the deck. He smashed the route to pieces on his second and successful go and stuck with Miles' name: Baron Greenback E9 7a, the enemy of Danger Mouse in the well known cartoon series.

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Recommended Routes

Bertie’s Bugbear Severe 4a

The gigantic and well-protected groove line to the left of Berlin Wall is definitely the best route of its grade on the crag. Don’t be put off by the green moss as it’s only on part of the route.

Coffin Crack VS 4c

A great introduction to the cracks at Wimberry with plenty of varied climbing. The un-mistakable coffin shaped box is passed by laybacks or jams. Which ever method you choose, it's heaps of fun.

The Trident HVS 5b

No amount of training at the wall will condition you for this. Just be prepared to keep fighting and think how lucky you are to have the luxury of large cams. A typical Joe Brown classic of the very highest quality. Some say it can be likened to a Chew version of The Peapod, but harder. The fact that it’s on a list of gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles should give you all the information you need.

Pinball Wizard E1 5c

A lovely little well protected finger crack with some hidden pockets, may offer a welcome respite if you’ve run out of skin on the previous two routes. This route actually feels about right for the grade and the conventional climbing might be more appealing to some.

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Blasphemy E2 5c

An absolute gem of a route. The initial finger crack takes lots of wires and there is even a partial shake out, But just when you think it’s in the bag, be prepared for the perplexing transition onto the top slab. Well named as people often swear on discovering the top is a little greener than expected, as they fluff the mantelshelf finale.

Charm E3 5c

Now the list wouldn’t be complete without a bit of slabby pebble pulling would it? For once, a non-death slab experience with just enough gear. This one actually feels quite easy for the grade, but just little scary.

Consolation Prize E5 6a

There are no prizes for coming second on this magnificent unprotected arête. All the hard climbing is in the first steep section, which can feel desperate unless brushed. The top arête is mainly 5b and extremely photogenic, but you would be well advised to clean the top if going for a lead.

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Gear

The routes are generally no more than 20m, so you could suffice with a doubled 60m if you wanted to lighten your load for the 30-minute slog up the hillside. A standard lightweight rack with a couple of very large cams will certainly come in handy for the classic lower grade cracks lines.

Provisions

The Clarence Pub down the road in Greenfield is well worth a visit after a hard day up on the moors. The nearby pie shop is not to be missed either.

Mike Hutton is an Adventure Photographer and Writer working for the Outdoor Industry.

During the past decade, Mike has travelled to over 30 countries capturing images of climbers in places rarely visited by people. He has accumulated over 2000 photo credits to his name and his work has been extensively published in the world's leading magazines and books and on national television. His editorial client list includes Daily Telegraph, Sunday Times, Daily Mail, Geographical Magazine, GQ Italia, Red Bulletin, Rock and Ice, Women's Adventure, The Outdoor Journal, Rockfax, Climbing, Derbyshire Life, Klettern, Desnivel, Pareti, Vertical, Climax, Climber, Summitt, Outdoor Photography and Rock and Snow.

Mike has worked with sponsored athletes from many of the top commercial outdoors brands such as Casio, Berghaus, Patagonia, Rab, Wild Country, Mammut, Boreal, Edelweis, Scarpa, Five Ten, Sherpa and Sterling. His sporting background as a Climber, Runner and Cyclist has given him the edge to keep up with some of the best athletes.

Currently, Mike divides his time between editorial commissions, tutoring and working for commercial clients.

For commissioning work and print sales please contact Mike via his website here