The Finest Routes in the Alps
Breithorn (4164m) – E-W Traverse AD+, IV+, 2.5km
All photos, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
in association with
The southern skyline of the Zermatt valley is one of the highest ridges in Europe. For over 10km between Monte Rosa and the Breithorn, passing over Liskamm, Castor and Pollux, it only drops below 4000m in two places. The Breithorn, or ‘broad peak’ forms the western part of this ridge, which is also the Swiss-Italian border. Further to the west again it drops to the Theodulpass and rises back up to the shapely Matterhorn. This western flank has been draped with the infrastructure of the Breuil-Cervinia and Zermatt ski areas. However these in turn provide very convenient access for alpinists.
Despite being at 3295m the Theodulpass was historically a significant trade route between the Aosta and Valais regions and items have been found dating back to 4000 B.C. The north face of the Breithorn, easily seen from most vantage points above Zermatt, presents an imposing maze of steep crevassed glaciers, rock bands and seracs. There are a selection of climbs here and under good snow/ice conditions the Triftjigrat and Younggrat are classic routes weaving devious lines and avoiding the objective serac dangers. These are both harder than the traverse but are to be recommended for fit and competent parties. The southern flanks support a broad glacial plateau of Grande Verra before the terrain drops more abruptly into the Val d’Ayas in Aosta, Italy. Though it is crevassed in places the plateau allows easy access to the ridge at both ends.
The Breithorn traverse is a classic mountaineering route and justifiably popular. It is long and technical but not too sustained. It also offers several escape options and detours along the way. The route offers steep snow and ice slopes, rock climbing, short ice gullies, mixed climbing and lots of exposed corniced ridge. To complete the full traverse will require the use of the full repertoire of alpine techniques – pitched climbing, simul climbing and short roping, and potentially the odd abseil or lower.
Most Zermatt guided teams opt for the shorter ‘half-traverse’ as it can be comfortably completed in a day trip from Zermatt. The full traverse is to be recommended if you have time as the scale and variety of terrain offer an even more rewarding experience. The greater traverse, starting from Monte Rosa and crossing Liskamm, Castor and Pollux before reaching the Breithorn, is an exceptional outing requiring stable conditions and a sturdy physique.
Jonathan Preston and Jos Burkill on the final gendarme of Breithorn Central
Conditions
The Valais Alps receive less precipitation than the northerly and westerly massifs. Nevertheless the Breithorn – Monte Rosa ridge catches most of the available weather. The approach route can often be shrouded in mist and low cloud making navigation through the glacial terrain tricky. The ridge is also very exposed and is best enjoyed without the torments of violent wind. The route is truly mixed, having alternate passages on snow and rock and sometimes even ice. It is one of the few routes that can be recommended year round, though its character changes considerably. In high summer the ridge will often have a track in the snow and patches of glacial ice appear. The rock buttresses of Breithorn Central are climbed directly and provide the crux of the route. In winter and spring the ridge it a very different proposition. Though it is more strenuous it remains about the same level of difficulty. It develops considerable cornices, sometimes traversing one side then the other. These require careful management and rope work. Some of the rock is bypassed to one side or another on snow slopes or gullies and at times short rock chimneys can become choked with ice. A very early start is recommended to avoid traversing the delicate snow crest of Breithorn Central in soft and dangerous condition.
Approach
There are several options for mountain accommodation. For the full traverse the closest accommodation is the C.A.I. Bivouac Rossi e Volante, a small unstaffed metal hut with easy access in an outstanding location. It has space for 12 and is situated just under the eastern summit of Roccia Nera at 3787m. It has mattresses and blankets but little else. A few hundred metres below it is the Rifugio Guide della Val d'Ayas (3420m) that is guarded seasonally. Other options include the bunk accommodation that is available at the Klein Matterhorn lift station itself, or the guarded Rifugio Guide del Cervino at Testa Grigia, the summit of the Cervinia lift system.
Route
The route varies depending on condition and under heavy snow some of the abseil stations can be hard to find. It can be traversed W-E, but in this direction the excellent climbing on Breithorn Central becomes awkward down climbing or abseils.
From the Klein Matterhorn station head SE then E to pass pt.3824m. Continue E to c.3700m and contour ESE under the rocky knoll where the Bivouac Rossi e Volante is found. Ascend to the hut via the eastern slopes and spend the afternoon drinking tea and in the sun. The following morning head NNE up steepening snow slopes to reach the ridge. These can often be wind scoured and icy. Head E to reach the summit of Roccia Nera. Double back on yourself and head NW to follow the beautiful corniced snow ridge then final rocks to peak 4106m (Breithornzwillinge East). From this summit down climb a few metres to a small saddle above a south facing gully/ramp which can be down climbed. Though this is not the standard route it can be the least complicated proposition. However if there is too little snow continue along the ridgeline to then down climb steeply or abseil 25m. Further down climbing gives access to the snowy saddle. Either way rejoin the ridgeline and follow this with short rock steps to 4139m (Breithorn East). From the summit continue NW and down climb (or abseil 20m from a block, often hidden under snow in winter) to find a south-facing ramp. This abseil station is hidden from view. From here down climb or abseil 20m to snow slopes and follow these up to the saddle at 4022m.
Jonathan Preston and Jos Burkill traversing col 4022m from Breithorn East to Breithorn Central. The Matterhorn can be seen in the background.
Tomas Mueller on the top of the first rock buttress of Breithorn Central.
Diego Cairns on Roccia Nera at daybreak
