10 Quick Tips - Enjoy your Sport Climbing Holiday

by Katherine Schirrmacher Feb/2009
This article has been read 8,288 times

How to get the best out of your sport climbing holiday

by Katherine Schirrmacher

In autumn 2008 Steve McClure and I ran a lovetoclimb coaching holiday to Geyikbayiri, near Antalya in Turkey. 20 people joined us over the two weeks and some great performances were put in all round. Putting together a trip like this, and making sure everyone has a good time, requires some careful planning.

Steve and I have mustered quite a bit of experience in this area, so here are 10 top tips we feel are important to make the most of your holiday and how some of our clients used them to full effect last September.

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+Katherine climbing Working Class F6a, 157 kb
Katherine climbing Working Class F6a
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© Alex Messenger

+Comfortable bungalow accommodation, 156 kb 1 Search out the sun

Places like Antalya are pretty much a dead cert. Us Brits need our rays and our vitamin D. Muscles work better when its warm and it always adds to the relaxing vibe necessary for a top trip. Geyikbayiri is south facing and a great winter destination that's why we've booked up for next November already, perfect when the winter depression kicks in over here. Snatching some winter sun can feel great, but a few destinations do have prolonged rainy periods. Mid winter somewhere like Mallorca can be pretty damp!

2 Find good food and comfortable accommodation

We stayed at the Josito camp just underneath the crag. Camping is available but on our trips we book out all the cute, wooden bungalows on the site. A little bit of luxury is always good when you want to push yourself at the crag the next day. What might seem like a great deal on the internet can actually end up being a real pain in the bum. Accomodation that is close to the climbing, comfortable and has a good shower is essential. You'll feel better, climb better and smell better!

+Andy Hansler on Smarter Smarter F4, 203 kb
Andy Hansler on Smarter Smarter F4
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers

3 Build up slowly

This goes for structuring your holiday and also each day in terms of warming up thoroughly. On the first day, visit a few crags, get used to the rock get your head in gear and don't get on a route at your limit. Remember to warm up your head as well as your body - you'll be able to do more routes in a day and on your holiday overall. Make sure there are plenty of easier routes in the area you want to visit. Above is Andy on a lovely F4 literally two minutes walk from the camp in Turkey.

+Louisa climbing Saxafon F6b+, 191 kb
Louisa climbing Saxafon F6b+
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers
4 Play to your strengths

If you're limited for time, why not stick to climbs that you like and are good at. If you decide to try out something new (see point 8) then make that a conscious decision, but don't give yourself a hard time if you find it desperate or fail. Holidays should be about enjoyment and not about ripping your skin on an ugly crack when you know you don't like cracks. If you like delicate slabs, search them out, research the area first to find out if it's going to have your kind of thing. Luckily in Geyikbayiri there's pretty much every type of climbing available so it'll suit anyone. Here's Louisa showing how its done on Saxafon, the classic F6b+, you need to have good steep rock technique to do this one!

+Mel Hayes redpointing Kapt'n Kirk F6c+, 204 kb
Mel Hayes redpointing Kapt'n Kirk F6c+
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers
5 Find routes that inspire you

Look upwards first! You may have found a crag that looks great in the book with five available F6bs but make your choice based on which one you like the look of, perhaps in terms of style, length or rock type. On the continent the guidebooks don't include rambling descriptions like ours, or even stars seeing is believing. Mel redpointed this F6c+, an inspiring tufa capped by a steep groove. What made this so special was how amazing the route appeared to her from the ground.


+Colin happy after his successful ascent of Diplomarbeit 7b, 191 kb
Colin happy after his successful ascent of Diplomarbeit 7b
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers
6 Focus

So we can all have a bit of a laugh, have a few too many drinks and stumble to the crag late when we're on holiday, but focusing really hard for just part of your trip can be very rewarding. Colin on week 2 managed to redpoint his first 7b. He's tried this grade before, but hadn't appreciated the focus needed to work the moves and take the appropriate resting time. Don, his friend belayed him and gave him the space he needed to focus. It was the last day, his skin almost worn through, but his careful preparation led to success.


+Carol Taylor onsighing a new 6a at Trebenna, 205 kb
Carol Taylor onsighing a new 6a at Trebenna
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers
7 Read the route from the ground

It's so easy to set off up a climb hoping to have an adventure and successfully reach the top. 'Hoping' is where it can all go wrong. Try and work out where the resting spots and crux sequences are from the ground. Plan accordingly aim for the rests, and follow the moves as you have planned, climbing quickly where necessary. These are difficult but vital skills. Carol perfected the art of onsighting. She onsighted her first 6a and 6a+ on our holiday. One of the most important things she found too was to prepare her head for how hard she would have to push herself.


+Misha Gopal redpointing a F7a pillar with Steve dangling next to him, 212 kb
Misha Gopal redpointing a F7a pillar with Steve dangling next to him
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers
8 Try out something new

Take this however you want! But I'm thinking along the lines of a style of climb or a new grade. Abroad the climbing is so different to the UK. Here's a picture of Misha redpointing his first 7a up a complicated tufa pillar. He found the style awkward and the strange moves hard to remember but success came in the end, the struggle made it all the more rewarding.


+Enjoying the freshwater lagoon, 170 kb
Enjoying the freshwater lagoon
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers
9 Enjoy your rest days

On a short trip many people think it's a good idea to climb every day. You can, but you definitely won't get the best out of your climbing. On our trips we always take a rest day, as much as anything to see something of the local area. We were recommended this top swimming spot local knowledge goes a long way.


+Enjoying a spot of lunch on the josito campground, 173 kb
Enjoying a spot of lunch on the josito campground
Katherine Schirrmacher, Feb 2009
© lovetoclimb/various photographers
10 Meet new people

Often the most memorable part of any climbing holiday. For many coming on a climbing holiday with me and Steve and a group of strangers is daunting. But you always leave having made a whole new set of friends. Sport climbing is a sociable activity and often local climbers have great advice on routes, moves and the best places to eat out. Ask around, you never know where it might lead...



+Premier Post: Lovetoclimb in 2009 with Katherine Schirrmacher, 55 kb Lovetoclimb offers other holidays, courses and one to one coaching. Get in touch or follow the links below to find out more!

Turkey

  • Week 1: 1-8th November 2009
  • Week 2: 8-15th November 2009

France

  • 3-10th October 2009

Rock Action (Summer camp for 12-17 year olds in the Peak District)

  • 20-24th July 2009



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