The Sea Monsters of Donegal - A Brief Guideby Iain Miller May/2009
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ACCESS: The following three stacks are all accessed from the same launch pad. (Grid Reference 544887) From the An Port road end, follow the coastal path south over two bridges for approximately 600 metres. Leave the path and walk towards the sea, until you are at the top of the easy angled slope and slabs overlooking Berg Stack and Vertical Picnic stack. Descend to the sea level platforms facing onto the most Northern stack (Berg Stack). Berg Stack is easily visible from the road end beach as it can be identified by the two steep grooves on its North side.
Dan Osman RIP, ** XS 4a 55m
Osmoregulation, DIFF, 23m
Vertical Picnic, V.DIFF 30m
ACCESS: Directly “out to sea” from the road end lie the following 6 stacks. All can be accessed by paddling from the road end slip. An alternative approach is to ascend the slopes directly to the north of the slipway and skirt the cliff tops for approx 500 metres. Once you are overlooking the stacks, (Grid Reference 546894) descend to the boulder beach between “Rolling Thunder” and “Twin Arch Stack.” From this atmospheric wee beach it is possible to access by boulder hop “Twin Arch,” “Rolling Thunder” and “Realm of the Senses.” (Low tide and a calm sea required)
Realm of the Senses, Svr, 50m
Rolling Thunder, V. DIFF, 80m
Twin Arch Stack, V. DIFF, 40m
Fortitude in Distress, V.DIFF, 40m
ACCESS: From the An Port road end follow the cliff tops for a shade over a Kilometre to the summit of the peninsula (Grid Reference 554899) overlooking and immediately to the East of the Twin Headed Stack, known locally as “An Bhuideal.” (The Bottle) Descend the very atmospheric peninsula/ridge to approx 50m before the tower to the North. From here descend the broken ground to the lonely wee south facing beach. From the huge flat semi submerged boulder, paddle the 200mtr to the landward side of the stack. Extreme caution required, this sea passage is very atmospheric. Abseil descent of the landward face.
An Bhuideal (main stack), ** SVR 4a 50m
ACCESS: From the An Port road end follow the cliff top path for approx 2KM until you are on the headland overlooking these monster stacks. (Grid Reference 557906) For Cnoc Na Mara and Lurking Fear descend the 200 metre grass slope to the lonely pebble beach facing the stacks. Keep to the grassy slopes, directly above the beach and avoid the scree to your right.
Cnoc Na Mara, *** VS 4b 152m
A Puffin Too Far, * VS 4c 150m
Lurking Fear, V. DIFF, 40m
ACCESS: Access to Tormore Island and The Hidden Stack is an involved affair! Follow the access details as for Glenlough Bay stacks. Once on the beach, “coasteer” your way West along the high water mark to the channel facing The Hidden Stack. For Tormore Island there is a further channel crossing to reach the non tidal platform at the bottom of the landward face of Tormore. From car to base of route approx 3.5 hrs!
Tormore Island, VS, 220m
ACCESS: From the An Port road end follow the cliff top path North for approx 3 KM. Once you pass the Tormore viewpoint (Grid Reference 557906) continue to follow the cliff tops as they descend into Glenlough Bay. At Grid Reference 567904, descend to the wide gully immediately to the South of the large ominous looking buttress. Follow the stream down this gully until approx 70 metre above the sea, traverse north for 50 metres and descend the scree slope to the beach. (Directly below the ominous buttress)
Grid Reference 568908, the following two routes climb the Landward face of the huge tent shaped stack in the centre of the bay.
Darkness Descends, DIFF, 95m
Rainman V.DIFF, 75m
Jenga, *** E2 5a, 50m
Gull Island E1 5a 145m
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