VIDEO: Ben Heason on Order of the Phoenix E8

by Mick Ryan / Jack Geldard Oct/2009
This article has been read 9,986 times

Wimberry central section. Is there anywhere to compare with this for hard trad?, 171 kbWimberry central section. Order of the Phoenix is line no. 1 © Rockfax, 28 Sep 2009

At the end of September, Miles Gibson climbed a new gritstone E9 at Wimberry (UKC News). Whilst Miles concentrated on his new line, his climbing partner Ben Heason managed a rare repeat of the hard route Order of the Phoenix (E8 6c) at the same crag.

Speaking about the route Ben said:

"Kevin Thaw's route, Order of the Phoenix (E8 6c) seemed an obvious choice. It looked a nice line and was the cleanest of the harder routes up there.

Physically it's the most sustained hard grit route I've done so far with no particularly easy moves on it. The climbing is highly technical, often with tenuous footholds and a crux slap up the arÍte from a 1-finger pebble (by which time the gear/rope is redundant), culminating with taking a small pebble in each hand to make a super high step to a smeary top-out.

Kevin lead the route with a low side runner in Coffin Crack, in an attempt to avoid the nasty boulder-strewn landing should the worst happen.

My ascent went smoothly but it's probably quite stern for the grade.

Fortunately Miles did his new route Dangermouse later that day - a fantastic effort and not a bad day!"

VIDEO: Ben Heason on Order of the Phoenix


Ben Heason is sponsored by Wild Country Red Chili

  • You can read an article by Ben on his recent onsight ascent of the F7b+ limestone route Il Pesce (The Fish) on the Marmolada on the Wild Country Website
Forums ( Read more )

Staff Picks

Aug 2014

thumb Earlier this summer, when the golden sun warmed the rock of North Wales, alpinist and trad climber Nick Bullock seized the... Read more

What's Hot Right Now

8 Sep 2016

thumb Author Dan Richards recently published a book about retracing the steps of his great-great aunt - the pioneer of women's climbing... Read more

Top Spot: Climbing Destination

Nov 2001

thumb OK, so it may be a long way away, but Hong Kong is really a climber's playground. As long as you're out of the city. Stuart... Read more