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Related UKC Forum discussions
At the end of September, Miles Gibson climbed a new gritstone E9 at Wimberry (UKC News). Whilst Miles concentrated on his new line, his climbing partner Ben Heason managed a rare repeat of the hard route Order of the Phoenix (E8 6c) at the same crag.
Speaking about the route Ben said:
Physically it's the most sustained hard grit route I've done so far with no particularly easy moves on it. The climbing is highly technical, often with tenuous footholds and a crux slap up the arÍte from a 1-finger pebble (by which time the gear/rope is redundant), culminating with taking a small pebble in each hand to make a super high step to a smeary top-out.
My ascent went smoothly but it's probably quite stern for the grade.
VIDEO: Ben Heason on Order of the Phoenix