Climb Magazine November 2009 Previewby Climb Magazine Oct/2009
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Take a look at what's inside the new look November issue of Climb Magazine. Great articles on Grand Capucin, Steve McClure on Hubble, Beeston, Greater Ranges on a Budget plus lots more. Climb is available to purchase from all WHS stores and other major newsagents, specialist outdoor retailers, as well as now being available in Tescos. You can subscribe online at www.climbmagazine.com or pick up a copy at your newsagents or at your local climbing shop. We've also got a digital teaser of the magazine this month at www.climbmagazine.com
Dawn, but only just. The tent seams slowly show dark against the panels, and I listen as Ben and Caff force on their frozen boots and crunch off into the darkness. Two hours later, as the sun finally crests the Jorasses and strikes the tent, I pack my camera and follow them. Its our fourth day on the mountain, and today is 'the big one'. Above camp, I skip across the two small crevasses either side of the crest of the Col du Flambeau, and start the steady descent towards the Cirque du Maudit.
Ahead of me the the low sun rakes across the south face of the Tacul, casting gullies into shadow and picking out its clustered towers and soaring ridges. In the centre the biggest pillar stands proud, its golden granite aflame with light - The Grand Capucin, perhaps the finest piece of granite in The Alps.
Breathing hard, I lean against my poles, steady my binoculars, and trace the line of the Voie Petit up the right-hand side of the face until I reach two dots - the boys nearing the top of the fixed ropes. I straighten up and look
around. Mont Blanc glitters bright against a dome of deepest blue. No clouds, no wind. So far so good.
Originally opened by Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet in 1997, the Voie Petit was freed by Alex Huber in 2005. It was big news. Heinz Zak's incredible photos made the covers of both Climb and Alpinist, showcasing fantastic rock, a
dramatic alpine setting, and desperate climbing that, to quote Alex, 'may be the hardest at this altitude in Europe'. Poring over the magazines, we had all been immediately inspired.
Deep in the quiet Southern reaches of the Peak District lies the Manifold Valley, home to a collection of superb but seldom visited limestone cliffs.
Pick of the bunch and a hidden paradise for the mid-grade climber is Beeston Tor. Life long devotee Mark 'Zippy' Pretty unlocks the secrets of this sleeping beauty.
In 1977 I was 15 and just 5 foot tall in my E.Bs (newly acquired) staring upwards with some trepidation at the enormous (to my young and inexperienced eyes) bulk of Beeston Tor. In my short climbing life I had heard tales of this place, 'everything is VS or harder, 'the older climbers in my club would say shaking their heads at the very thought of setting foot on the cliff which, of course, only made me more curious.
Have you Had a Dream...Even from before you started climbing and going to the mountains that one day you would climb a Himalayan peak? It is often one of those ambitions that easily gets put off: 'I'll do it when I've finished college/got a job/paid off the mortgage/gotrid of the kids/had my knee operation/got divorced...'or whatever. And now, to top it all we are in a recession and many of the Himalayan countries are in political or relgious crisis. It can't be a good time to follow that dream can it? The answer is yes.
At one time it was fairly straightforward - if you knew your size all you had to do was trot along to your nearest supplier of mountaineering equipment , stroll up to the counter and request a size 'whatever' pair of Galibier RD Super Guides, hand over a wad and go climbing. There were several other brands about but their boots seemed to just gather dust on the shelves. I'm not sure whether there was actually a law that said that everyone must have them, but it certainly seemed that way. Things are very different nowadays though.
Mountain INFO is now exclusively available on-line via the Climb Magazine website FREE!! This internationally acclaimed resource has been added to our extensive online 'Archives' as a fully downloadable pdf. You will be able to view and print off Mountain INFO at the touch of a button, 24/7 via the Climb website at www.climbmagazine.com
For over 35 years Mountain INFO has been the essential place to research Alpinism, big walls and mountaineering expeditions throughout the world. An intrinsic part of Climb Magazine, Mountain INFO is edited by the well known and respected mountaineer, Lindsay Griffin, who uses his worldwide contacts, built up over many years - to bring first-class information and quality images to you. Now, to enable you to access this massive resource more easily we are making it freely available online. Search for places of interest to plan your next expedition and keep yourself up-to-date with what is happening in the world of mountaineering.
Log on and access every Mountain INFO published in Climb Magazine since March 2005. As with all of our 'Archives', we will continue to add to this section, eventually including the early days of High Mountain Sports.
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