More Articles Like This
Elbow injuries (tendonitis) are arguably the most common along with finger injuries. In this article, climbing coach Robin... [ full article ]
Popular Articles Right Now
Accident in Oman - Always be Prepared 6 Aug 2014
A new route on Oman's Jebel Misht nearly ended in disaster...
"There was a huge flap of skin hanging down from my face and my... [ full article ]
Bouldering in NYC: A New look at New York 30 Jul 2014
Gaz Leah is a Brit living in New York, and has released a guidebook to bouldering in the Big Apple.
Here he talks about his... [ full article ]
UKClimbing.com content in July 2014 15 Aug 2014
A summary of all the latest content on UKClimbing.com from the past month, including: 12 new articles, 29 product announcements... [ full article ]
Related UKC Forum discussions
The instructions are clear and simple and include photos and a short video. We hope it works for you too.
VIDEO: Eccentric Exercise for Golfer's Elbow
I'm a fairly accomplished rock climber that suffered three years (between 2005 and 2008) of golfers elbow (or medial epicondylitis). I went through all the usual therapies; ice, rest (months), corticosteroid injections, and none of them helped. At a certain point even simple things like washing my hair, or closing a car door hurt. I dreaded that I would have to give up my sport.
After having been told by an orthopaedic surgeon that even surgery would probably not really help (only 50% chance of success), I was quite desperate. One last bout of searching the internet found some promising links (below) on†successful†use of†eccentric†exercise†with professional soccer players with Achilles and patella tendon injuries.
I managed to translate their work to an effective program for my elbow; the results were quite spectacular. I started in January 2008 and I was mostly healed in about 4 weeks (no more pain in daily life activities), and could sport (climb) again at my maximum level after some 4 months. The effect of the exercise is quick; after two weeks you'll start seeing results, after 4 weeks the pain has mostly gone. I kept doing the exercise until autumn 2008 to get rid of the final pain twinges that occurred at some angles of the elbow. I have been pain free since late 2008.
I've created this page for fellow sufferers, that have the discipline to exercise a few times a day for a few minutes to cure their†epicondylitis; I hope it's as effective for you as it has been for me. I've done these exercises in the first half of 2008, and my elbow has been healthy since then. I'm climbing harder than ever.
Bart van Deenen
I've marked the stick with a cm. scale, starting at 9cm on the nearest clamp.
The intensity of the training is defined by the multiplication of the weight and the distance from your hand to the weight: in this example: 0.5kg * 22cm = 11. If you move your hand to 25cm on the scale, the exercise increases to (25*0.5) = 12.5, so that is already 14% more. Increase the centimetres slowly to increase the intensity of your training!
How to train
Start with a low weight and a short distance (for me it was 0.5kg and 15cm). The exercise must hurt, but not so much that your elbow hurts more after the exercise is over. Do 10 or 20 repetitions a few times a day. Increase the stick distance (and eventually the weight) as needed. Make sure that when you increase the weight, you decrease the distance, so that the intensity stays more or less the same.
I found that immediately after the exercise the elbow felt better, sort of warm and numb.
You can keep doing sports during the eccentric training period, just let the pain decide how much you can do.
ProgressionAfter 2 weeks I started noticing real every day improvements, where pain for typical household chores would be gone.
I increased the intensity every day or so, and after 4 weeks most of the every day pains were gone.
Eventually I was working with 3kg at 25cm (intensity 75), to get rid of the last pains that I only experienced with overhanging climbing.
It took months for all the pain at every angle of the elbow to disappear. At the end I did the exercise with a really bent elbow (no longer resting the hand on the knee) because that was the only elbow angle where I still felt pain.
Tennis elbowMy wife had problems with a tennis elbow (lateral epicondylitis), and did the same exercise in reverse, i.e. lower the weight on the stick inwards instead of outwards. The same rules apply and it's just as effective.
LinksThese links set me on the trail of†eccentric†exercise.
All this exercise took place in early 2008. I've been climbing hard since then, and I am currently climbing better than ever (7b redpoint). My elbow is still fine.
Please send me feedback: mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org I'm on an extended rock climbing trip at the moment, and will often not reply very quickly, because I don't have internet access.
UPDATE: 24 March 2011: I have mails of 5 people that are doing the exercise. Of three of them, I know they have very positive results, one is euphoric†having gone through pretty much the same non-working "treatments" that I did. I'll do some mail†excerpts†next time I'm online. Please DO mail me if you are doing the exercise and have results (positive or negative).