INTERVIEW: Ed Hamer - 2nd In World Youth Championships

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2011
This article has been read 5,636 times

British climber Ed Hamer recently came a fantastic second place in the the World Youth Championships. Ed has been going from strength to strength both on the competition circuit and out on the crag.

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+Ed Hamer coming second in the World Youth Championships 2011, 142 kb
Ed Hamer coming second in the World Youth Championships 2011
© RachelCooper, Aug 2011

We have run several reports about Ed in the last couple of years (UKC News) and wanted to find out more about his August competition success.

The competition, held on the 24th to 28th of August, saw over 650 athletes compete in the three age categories in both Lead and Speed disciplines.

+Ed Hamer in the WYC Final 2011, 119 kb
Ed Hamer in the WYC Final 2011
Rachel Cooper, Aug 2011
© RachelCooper
Jack: Where was the competition?

Ed: The competition was in Austria at a small town called Imst about 30 minutes drive from Innsbruck.

Jack: And you came in second place - is that your best comp result?

Ed: This was by far the best competition result I have ever had and I will always remember that day! It was an amazing experience and I loved everything about it. I came 17th at the last world cup in Ratho and 42nd at the one before in Valence.

Jack: Can you describe the comp? How it panned out? Getting to finals?

Ed: The competition started on Thursday and ended on Saturday evening. We did one route on Thursday and one on Friday - which were the qualification routes. Then the semi-final and final were on Saturday. There were lots of people watching throughout the four days which made it very exciting. I climbed okay on both routes but there was the usual stiff opposition. I managed to qualify in 23rd place into the semi-final which was really cool.

The next day I climbed the best I could on the semi-final route, it was a very wet and cold day which I think helped me because I am used to that living in the Peaks! Ha Ha!

Again I wasn't sure of getting into the final but when I saw the results at the end I was shocked! I came 8th place. At this point I was already happy with my placing in the world (8th) so just went out for the final route just to have as much fun as possible, I shocked myself again by climbing pretty well and then finding myself sitting in the anti-doping chair for longer than usual, as the total WADS kept falling lower than me!

At the end of this I came in 2nd place which was incredible. I actually held onto the first position until the last climber who was Slovenian. He managed to work out the tricky sequence on the highest volume which gave him a well deserved 1st place. I was psyched to get that podium place though!

Jack: It was a youth comp - when will you be moving up to the seniors?

Ed: This year was my last Youth World Cup so next year I will be in the seniors. I am very keen to carry on with the senior team and try and get some good results from that. 

Jack: Who else was there from the GB team?

Ed: In total there were 5 of us competing (Buster, Molly, Tara, Luke, Myself). Everybody climbed very well and was happy with their result, and all want to train harder to improve. I just want to say a big up to Ian Dunne and John Ellsion who made the trip a lot of fun and very relaxed! Peace out!

+Ed Hamer cranking the classic 7b+ of Blocage Violent on his holiday to Ceuse, 183 kb
Ed Hamer cranking the classic 7b+ of Blocage Violent on his holiday to Ceuse
UKC News, Aug 2011
© Robbie Phillips
Jack: How do you see British competition climbing progressing?

Ed: In the period that I've been in the British team I've seen big improvements in quality performance and psyche from the team members and coaches. I think there are some younger members who have huge potential to win some big competitions.

Jack: What are your thoughts on climbing going in to the Olympics?

Ed: I think it would be great if it got into the Olympics. The atmosphere at the World Championships was electric, and I felt that if that could be created at the Olympics it would be a huge success and raise the profile of climbing as a sport .

Jack: What kind of support do you or the GB team get for competitions? Money for travel from the BMC? Anything?

Ed: The deal is that we pay for the trips, but if you get into the final you will be reimbursed 50% by BMC and if you make the podium, the trip is paid for by them.

Jack: How does this competition relate to your current outdoor climbing form?

Ed: After the competition, my brother Sam and I went straight to this outdoor crag and had a brilliant day! I managed to flash two 8a+'s which I think was due to getting better at onsighting and feeling more dynamic after the success of the competition. It definitely improved my confidence to move well on the rock. 

Jack: What are your future competition and outdoor climbing plans?

Ed: At the moment we are planning to go the The Red River Gorge next April/May time which should be an interesting trip. I am currently having a year off and just chillin in the Peaks. I have still yet to climb an 8c but hopefully there is one out there that I might be able to do! That would be nice!

In terms of competition climbing I am very keen to help out with the junior team and compete in some of the senior comps next year. I still have 3 more International competitions this year, two Europeans, and one Senior World Cup and to defend my titles in the BLCC's!

Jack: Anything you would like to add?

Ed: Yes, I just wanted to say very WELL DONE to Molly who got into the final of the world cup. This was her first Worlds and she still has 5 more years of competition crushing. She is a mutant and is definitely worth looking out for in the future.

And I would like to say a big thanks to my sponsors, Wild Country , Red Chili, Beal and Moon who have supported me over the year and especially during the 2 month climbing road trip that my brother and I have just completed.

Jack: Yes, I heard about that - and the photo of you at Ceuse (shown below) made it in to the Top 10 photos of the week on UKC actually - can you give us some more details about the trip?

Ed: Sure. The trip took us to the French world class climbing venues of Ceuse, Orpierre, Volx, Briancon and the Austrian granite destination of Zillertal. We met some outstanding climbers, and hung out in the coolest of places!

Jack: Give us some numbers!

Ed: Sure, I climbed 44 grade 8's and my tick list from the trip is...

+Ed finishes off Carte Blanche in the evening light, 157 kb
Ed finishes off Carte Blanche in the evening light
© Dirk Smith, Jul 2011

Ed Hamer's 2 month trip:

Route
Grade Style
Monnie de Singe
8a
Carte Blanche
8a
(flash)
Bourinator 
8a
(flash)
Le Collenetts   
8a
(onsight)
Petit Tom             
8a
(flash)
Bouse de douze    
8a
(2nd go)
L'amie cauoette    
8a
Bookaro Banzai 
8a
(flash)
The Scientist     
8a
(2nd go)
Oztal   Scene   
8a
(2nd go)
Mr Ed    
8a
Rain Man    
8a
(flash)
Space        
8a
Game Over   
8a
(flash)
Shoashing   
8a
(onsight)
Petit Test
8a
(onsight)
Cost of Freedom
8a
(2nd go)
Espoire Karsherise
8a
(flash)
Papapuk 
8a
(onsight)
Le Pitchnous 
8a
La Tourdeus Melezes
8a
(flash)
Suers Froides  
8a+
(onsight)
La Couleur du vents (direct)
8a+
(2nd go)
Dolce Vita
8a+
(2nd go)
Rat Man   
8a+
(2nd go)

La Femme Blanche 

8a+
(2nd go)
Encore 
8a+
(onsight)
Le Poinconneur des Lila's
8a+
(flash)
Little Sister     
8a+
(2nd go)
The Big Red     
8a+
Waldshnaxlar  
8a+
Ares  
8a+
(flash)
Uranus 
8a+
(flash)
Hurlement   
8a+
(2nd go)
Gradiva    
8a+
Grottesque  
8a+
N'obliez Jamais  
8b
(2nd go)
Caramello  
8b
(3rd go)
Silmarillion  
8b
(2nd go)
Radote Joli Pepere
8b
(2nd go)
Violent Illusion  
8b
L'amie de tout le monde
8b
(2nd go)
Je Suis une Hyene
8b+

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